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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    quitman, mississippi
    Posts
    20

    Default 2010 mastersbilt smack wont turn!!!!

    I have a 2010 mastersbilt smack and I cant get it free enough getting in the corner or center off. This weekend I had this setup springs lf 450 rf 275 on bump, lr 175 14 inch rr 225 53.8 left, 50.8 rear 45 lbs wedge crate class ride heights lf 3 7/8 rt 3 3/4 rr 7 1/2 lr around 8 right bars rolled back 1 inch car would not turn in without braking hard track was hammer down wide open all the way around

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    687

    Default

    I would look at the LR ride height for one. Book asks for 7 3/8 - 7 5/8. I might look at 8" once it got slick.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    quitman, mississippi
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    20

    Default

    The car acts like it never slips the left rear. When the track gets slick we are real good but we are terrible when it is heavy. and it gets worse if i have a good left tire on. we have been fastest with zero left wheel. thanks for the reply ----if i run 7 1/2 lr i will be square across the back ----same ride height on left and right what wedge would you try to run

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    687

    Default

    I can't comment at all on bite or percentages. I don't have scales. Next years investment.

    Where are you running your J-bar? And your bars?

    Pretty sure a crate car is gonna need to be looser to free things up because of the lower hp.
    Last edited by keeks; 09-01-2014 at 10:06 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    13,615

    Default

    If you are off the gas on entry, put more rf spring in it to fix entry.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -1

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,123

    Default

    My guess is you've got your j-bar way too low on the pinion side. For a crate motor it needs to be about an inch ABOVE the pinion to get it to turn when the track is fast.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    687

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt49 View Post
    My guess is you've got your j-bar way too low on the pinion side. For a crate motor it needs to be about an inch ABOVE the pinion to get it to turn when the track is fast.
    If you go that high on the pinion, do you still keep your baseline setting on the frame? Or move it up accordingly as well? I'm guessing it stays the same on frame.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Red Dirt USA
    Posts
    1,024

    Default

    Yes, leave it the same on the frame. Your driver should def notice that change.

    Also, try 200/225 on lr if its too tight off the gas or add more bite!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    quitman, mississippi
    Posts
    20

    Default

    This weekend the car was tight on throttle. It would not turn in and the track was hammer down---never lift throttle!!!! the bars are right upper----top hole, right lower--- top hole, left upper standard, left lower---top hole. pinion is 1/2 inch from bottom( 2 clicks up) frame at 9 1/2 inches rearend is 15 7/8 over we have added more bite and it gets much worse everywhere-----tight all over track!!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    quitman, mississippi
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Matt----please give me your baseline setup that you would recommend leaning toward the free side----our shocks are new integra double adj set up for our car by WAR. we are on bump on rf. --- on the pinion we are on 1/2 inch from bottom which looks to be level with driveshaft---- all help is deeply appreciated since we have not been able to get the car really free all year long unless the track gets slick.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Brownstown, Indiana
    Posts
    92

    Default

    I will leave it to Matt49 or MasterSbilt_racer to help you with a complete set-up, as I am certainly no expert. But I will say from my experience with the same car as yours that your biggest problem is the J-bar rake. Depending on what length bar you are using, you either have way too much rake or way, way, way too much rake. You probably also don't want to go over 15.750" from 90/10 plate to center of RR frame rail on a heavy track. (Fixing your J-bar angle should also get you closer to the 15.750", but you will still have to adjust after setting J-bar.) I am surprised that you haven't damaged the roof with that set-up on a heavy track.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    220

    Default

    What bump are you on? What spacing? I run a low HP motor and have been playing quite a bit with the RF bumps and spacings. I noticed if I get too aggressive with the engagement of the bump, I have the same problem you do. It's not that my RR won't rotate, it's that my LR keeps too much drive in the car while on the bump.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    132

    Default

    I agree with Matt. Keep raising the jbar on pinion until it is to free to drive and then adjust.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    13,615

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HuckleberryB4 View Post
    What bump are you on? What spacing? I run a low HP motor and have been playing quite a bit with the RF bumps and spacings. I noticed if I get too aggressive with the engagement of the bump, I have the same problem you do. It's not that my RR won't rotate, it's that my LR keeps too much drive in the car while on the bump.
    I agree. Saying you have a bump is like saying you have a spring. That said. The j bar is the problem.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -1

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt49 View Post
    My guess is you've got your j-bar way too low on the pinion side. For a crate motor it needs to be about an inch ABOVE the pinion to get it to turn when the track is fast.
    Agreed. We have a track around us that stays bolted down and I start 1" above the pinon
    Owner/Blogger/Crash Test Dummy
    www.nextlevellatemodel.com

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Red Dirt USA
    Posts
    1,024

    Default

    Yeah Garrett, if your talking about OSP, its definitely locked down during the feature and a tire-eater also! lol

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    quitman, mississippi
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Thanks guys for all the help. Sounds like my j bar is where i will try next. I have never gone above the pinion----only even with it----i dont know enough about bump stop to say anything except it was setup by WAR shocks for a 2010 mastersbilt---thanks

  18. #18

    Default

    I would also look at increasing LS %. Closer to 54.5-55% is going to be much easier to drive when the track is fast.

    From there, I'd also increase LR spring rate to a 200 or 225. And get that LR ride height up to 8 1/2" to 8 3/4" with driver. The higher ride height is going to keep additional steer in the car even when off the throttle.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    quitman, mississippi
    Posts
    20

    Default

    update----Well we raised the lead up to camshaft height on the vertical bar in the center of the car toward the front--close to transmission area. It changed my left side to 54.6. Also dropped front ride heights to 3 1/2 on each side with 50 lbs of bite ---------the car did roll up under caution some but nit like the other cars-----also still did not tuck the left rear on throttle-------so i raised the lead all the way to the top of the frame as high as i could get it-------the car tried to pull the left tire under the car and did a couple of times but you could tell it was difficult to do it-------when the left tire went under, it shot under quickly like it was in a bind and then got freed up-----i still need some way of making it move the left rear under the car quicker and smoother----left lower bar is next to top hole---thanks

  20. #20

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