I want to build an engine.

**citiracer** · 09-04-2014, 06:28 PM

I’m looking for smooth power for slick track conditions but just enough to at least not be lapped traffic in the rare instance we have hammer down conditions. So my target HP is in the 650-700 range.

I want cheap and I want reliable which I realize is having my cake and eating it too but I think it can be done if I keep the HP in this range.

Here’s my “recipe” so far and I’m wanting any seasoned engine guys out there to punch holes in it or tell me if I’m headed in the right direction.

Dart SHP or Little M block with 4.155 final bore (I have a local machine shop that will probably do the work for nothing in exchange for some advertising).

Scat fully forged rotating assembly with H-beam rods, top of the line internals for circle track, blah blah blah. 3.75 stroke with 6 inch rods going for 406 final displacement (adjust compression height accordingly depending on deck height of the block).

AFR 227 heads (23 degree) with 65 or 75 cc chambers depending on where we end up wanting to be on compression ratio. I don’t want to spend time or money on head work when it appears they have a really nice out-of-the-box piece that flows well.

I figured from there, I’ll consult Comp Cams on a proper piece to feed it but I’m leaning toward a mechanical roller and whatever needs to be done up top to support the slopes (e.g. shaft rockers, dual springs, etc.) at about 7500 RPMs. If we identify that the lifter bores can’t support the roller cam maybe we’ll go flat tappet.

Super victor intake.

Then I have a good relationship with a carb place that I think can match up my fuel curve requirements if I give them all the specs to this point in the build. But I think this can be fed adequately by an 850 cfm carb since we run mostly shorter tracks.

One other thing is that I want to keep it wet sump to control cost and maintenance.

We’ll light it up with either a high-end HEI or MSD system.

ATI balancer and dual-chain Cloyes for some insurance on the front.

I think this can be done for right at about $10K but…
Pick it apart boys!!!

**stockcar5** · 09-04-2014, 07:12 PM

Scat is not top of the line. Crower or Callies would be much better and closer to 'top of the line". Go with a good company for a cam. Dont waste your time talking to college dropouts at comp for a cam. I use camcraft in NC.

**JustAddDirt** · 09-05-2014, 07:57 AM

I agree with stockcar5.
I would suggest a Callies Magnum crank, much better crank for the money than Scat.

**lilsumo** · 09-05-2014, 10:17 AM

get a good camshaft and that motor could win anywhere. If you had the budget, go with the AFR 245 23 degree head, but they require a 1500 dollar set of shaft rockers and offset lifters. You could call Chad Speier and get a set of his profiler heads. These are the same price of the AFR that you are looking at, but flow better and do not require any special rockers or lifters.

Crower and Callies are both good, but just like scat, they have varying levels of quality. Scat makes some good cranks.

I do believe if I was going with the Scat rotator, I would strongly look at the Callies Compstar kit. The magmun cranks are tough, but the price may be out of your range.

If you shop around you could do that engine easily for 10 or less.

The block I would just buy an SHP from Mullins already machined, unless you are getting a real deal on it.

**HRE** · 09-05-2014, 01:26 PM

Easy 700 hp on our DTS dyno non inflated numbers
can give references to how they drive if needed
Callies Magnum 3.625 stroke
Callies ultra rod 6.125
cnc ported heads track 1 x heads
jesel sportsman rocker (pro series would be best because of rocker ratios)
super victor on gas
super victor 2 on alky
comp cams are fine, we use them, proven power and race winners on them
Olson oil pan, and pump, dont need the titan pump, Melling 10555c works just fine
SHP with main studs, or SHP pro block would be fine and is lighter also.

**Brian Gray** · 09-19-2014, 08:05 PM

Mr house just gave you the butter with exception I like the Afr227 head better. They sell a competition 227 witch is thicker around the combustion chamber though I do recommend spending the extra dough on it. 3 areas to not go cheap. 1 valves. 2 rod bolts. And 3 valve springs. If you choose Afr buy them direct ask for the upgraded casting . they also have a new severe duty 7mm valve and the springs are your choice but choose wisely on quality. The Callie's ultra rod comes with l19 ultra bolts you can't choose a better rod for the money .

**Krooser** · 09-19-2014, 09:10 PM

Forget SCAT…. Callies, Crower, Lunati are all better.

Big ads don't mean big HP… Camcraft, Jones, Bullet would be better choices for a cam. The big guys don't use off the shelf cams… neither should you.

Go with a Rollmaster timing set with an IWIS German chain… tougher than a Cloyes and you'll pick up HP with better quality.

Mahle pistons with their 1/1/2 mm ring packs.

I have heard good things about Profiler heads...

**bob75** · 09-20-2014, 08:23 PM

the good scat crank is not a bad crank, mullins runs them in his imca motors.

**BIK Inc** · 10-11-2014, 10:53 PM

Best thing to do is scroll through the classifieds there are some top notch nice stuff out there for reasonable prices that will win you some races .You could buy one of them and send it to your engine builder to get it looked over or refreshened for cheaper than you would put together a winning engine. Don't get caught up in all the specs and cubic inch if they are put together right with nice parts they will run good.