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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    16

    Default

    That is exactly what I am thinking. everyone will tell you to watch out for suspension bind so I am going to mount mine straight up. I can always make a bracket that will allow my left side to go in if I feel like I need to. my car used stock mounts for 4 years and my car before it did and I won many features in them. Both were Camaro chassis cars and from the factory they are equal lengths. I am going to go with what works, I am changing a whole bunch of things on my car for this season so I am already nervous about the car. Thanks for all of the help guys

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    305

    Default

    Your brackets need to be in line but your springs don't with each other. What we are trying to achieve is a mechanical traction device built into the spring while creating lift on the chassis. My springs on the cars I've had as leafs ran 200 RR and 225-250 LR with RR floated. The leafs on LR were very long as well and didn't use spacer/blocks because of axle wrap. No car will out drive you off the corner unless they're running a lift bar. The front leaf mount just under the seat or to the right. 2 car length off every corner in the slick.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,336

    Default

    If you are worried about bind get the leaf spring sliders for the rear shackles. You can also drill more then one front mounting hole. I also see rear leaf spring sliders on jacking bolt setups so you can use the rear slider to keep bind out but also use it to adjust ride height with the jacking bolt. Leaf springs by design have a low rear roll center and lots of axle wrap, its hard to be good on every kind of condition, but there are still some very fast leafs around. You can get the adjustable pin lowering block so you can set LR to RR trail or its easier to make tweaks if you get knocked outta wack.

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