Cost of running a crate late model

[Matt49]

You can call me whatever you want. It doesn't change the fundamental fact that open late models corner faster than crate late models and accelerate faster than crate late models. None of this could physically occur if it weren't for increased friction between the tires and the track. That's a scientific fact.
To put it in layman's terms, a tire that isn't wearing isn't working. Yes you can abuse a tire and wear it faster due to wasted energy (like wheel spin) but tire wear is the RESULT of friction and if there is no friction there is no grip. A tire that isn't wearing or never increases temp is not providing optimal grip. You need more grip to accelerate faster and turn faster. More grip means more friction. More friction means more tire wear. This really isn't rocket science. Tire wear is not a bad thing in racing. If your tires aren't wearing then you aren't using them for grip, you're just rolling on them. That's why tires that are too hard last so long...because they aren't working (friction) and therefore aren't wearing.
Call a tire manufacturer and tell them that you want to go faster on the same compound and not wear it as fast and let us know when the laughter subsides...I'll wait.

[Matt49]

I actually work for Michelin and various other tire companies. I'm quite experienced to say the least young grasshopper. Let me know what tires seal up and harden and the best operating temps and ill be impressed.  Btw you wouldn't happen to work in this industry would you?

Which Michelin office or plant do you work in?

[Matt49]

Wow...

Racer63 may have been right

[7uptruckracer]

I think so. I mean hell AR AND HOOSIER OFFER their best operating temps based on compound. My kid can find that and I don't even have one. I leave for one night and all this happens lol. It won't let me add to your Rep Matt49 but thats about the only way you can explain it. Oh and Hendren will cut down the 10" to 8" thats all we do no fancy rears to be bought.

[hpmaster]

Some days it's best to just sit on the sidelines

[Matt49]

I think so. I mean hell AR AND HOOSIER OFFER their best operating temps based on compound. My kid can find that and I don't even have one. I leave for one night and all this happens lol. It won't let me add to your Rep Matt49 but thats about the only way you can explain it. Oh and Hendren will cut down the 10" to 8" thats all we do no fancy rears to be bought.

That's interesting because our rules say "no 8" ring gears". Doesn't say anything about a 9" so I've jokingly said that we should just chuck it up in the lathe and turn it down to about 8.050 :-)
But I only have a 9" lathe so I couldn't do it myself but I was really always just joking when I mentioned it before. Now it has me thinking.
Are you getting any strange wear on the pinion with it essentially only being half engaged after shaving that inch off of the ring?

[7uptruckracer]

Sorry I'm to be excused its a 9" cutdown. No to the second

[drtrkr244]

With 20 plus years of dirt experience, I agree 100% with Matt. Also, I don't know about yall, but I've never seen a set of Michelins on a dirt car! A lot of people think asphalt concepts apply to dirt, but most don't!

[keeks]

I am very fairly new to the DLM world, but I have worked my way around them winged wonders for many a year. I just about jumped out of my seat when I read that a crate motor is a great way to dial in the car for the open motor. What? "Hey boys, we are gonna swap out the 410 for the 305 so we can get the car dialed in during this test day"! What?

[ask0329]

Back to the question on hand. I have raced IMCA mods for the last 4 years and my home track has dropped the class. Luckily two local tracks run crate late models. So I was fortunate enough to of been able to trade my IMCA mod for a 2003 Shaw late model. It wasnt complete but close. In looking for the parts to finish her off heres what i have found cost wise.

Bell housing - imca had to be basicaly stock steel. LM - can be anything. Of course magnesium reverse mount starter being the best. More $.
Starter/flywheel - this goes hand in hand with the above. they are more costly vs IMCA.
Driveshaft - Carbon Fiber seems to be the hot ticket at a cost of $579-$700 in a LM. In IMCA i believe i paid $125 new from speedway.
Calipers - IMCA was stock OEM. LM - wilwood seems to be what everyone is running. More money.
Shocks - IMCA steel no shrader valve no remotes. LM - how much money you got? guys are running shocks that cost more than a 602 engine. Not really but close.
Body - theres more of it, more aluminum, more cost when rebuilding. I believe i priced a nose and sides for $270.
Tranny - imca is limited to the more basic racing trannys. LM- ball splines and whatever else. more money.
Rear ends are a wash as QC's are now legal in IMCA plus a 9" is pricey regardless.
Tires IMCA was $96 a tire all for corners. LM I priced our tires at $185 each after tax.
Spindles havent priced them yet but I was picking up metric spindles for imca at $15 each.
Rotors i'm assuming are more costly.
springs i was paying about $40-50 new on imca. LM Springs ive seen are generally in the $60 range.

Please anyone feel free to correct me as i am new to the LM world. I've only had the car a couple of weeks and this is just in general what i've seen browsing online or catalogs.

[ask0329]

Thanks for the info SCD. For this year I'm just going to run the bell starter and such that I ran in my IMCA. Just to get me on the track and some seat time in the new car. I'll upgrade some of that stuff over next winter. I dont need everything on that list but some of it was just info that i have found in researching late models and the rules for our crate class.