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Traction shock
What are guys using for the traction shock on their Rockets.
looking for the valve info for the left rear front shock (traction shock)
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The best thing to do for "traction" with the shock in front of the left year is to put it in the trailer.
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Not disagreeing with Matt49, but I took my LRF shock off and gained traction and LR shock travel. I just could not get enough compression in the LR shock or enough rebound in the RF to keep the car from sitting on the LR hard ¾ way down the straight causing the car to wanna go right towards the wall. I put my dummy on a clamp bracket beside the birdcage and fixed my problem. Integra use to have a right up about it on there website.
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Originally Posted by TLM4t4
Not disagreeing with Matt49, but I took my LRF shock off and gained traction and LR shock travel. I just could not get enough compression in the LR shock or enough rebound in the RF to keep the car from sitting on the LR hard ¾ way down the straight causing the car to wanna go right towards the wall. I put my dummy on a clamp bracket beside the birdcage and fixed my problem. Integra use to have a right up about it on there website.
I had the same problem without LRF on my car. No shock, "Hello Wall" when it starts coming off the bars.
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Just curious was your 5th arm traveling to far? Were you on a chain. I take setting down 3/4 of the way down as it was unloading itself while on throttle. I've always run a LRF with some hefty compression. I do have a consult that has a genesis specially valved for the no LRF shock and according to genesis its built for just what yall are speaking about. I've never had him run it because he hasn't been able to do a stand alone test yet
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Saying a traction shock does not ever help ever is way too broad, in my opinion. It's another adjustment that on some cars, again SOME not all, I have found useful on tracks as they slicken off.
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I should have been more clear on my statement. The reason I put quotes around "traction" is that I personally don't feel that having any kind of shock in front of the LR is better than nothing at all when it comes to getting the car hiked. Bottom line is that there is no such thing as 0 rebound dampening even with high gas pressure.
That being said, having a high compression and/or high gas pressure shock in front of the LR can help KEEP the car on the bars and then you don't have to worry about getting the car BACK up.
It depends a lot on how you drive also. Don't take driving advice from me but I will say that proper trail braking eliminates the problem of the car flattening out going into the corner.
If the car flattens going into the corner, you will be tight on entry because you don't have any rear steer. Then you have to slide the car to get it to turn. And then you won't have any forward bite regardless of what you have for a shock in front of the LR.
Personally, I have been good with a blow-up shock in front of the LR but I think I can be even better with no shock and driving it differently. Again, this is a personal thing for me. I think the line between a driving "aid" and a "crutch" can get blurry sometimes.
But then again, some of the best drivers out there run a shock in front of LR so your all's guess is as good as mine.
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See that's my personal tuning preference. If i'm working with a driver I sometimes try to eliminate driver mistakes and use the LR front as a "hike down" controller I normally run now a 6-0 to 9-0 and hold in rear steer for entry, but we don't get to slick down here
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The "traction shock" can make things easier for the driver. Let's face it driving is not easy especially in the slick so the traction shock can make things easier for the driver by making one less thing he needs to think about and do by keeping the car up. In my opinion and what I try to do for my guys is make it easier for them to focus on driving and hitting their marks by utilizing things like a LR front shock.
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Good points above...maybe I'm being too hard on myself. Some of the guys that consistently out run us are shockless in front of LR with basically the same car as mine. But they also have a lot more driving experience.
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So is that the main reason to run a lrf shock - to keep the car up on the bars?
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The short answer is yes. If you were to measure the roll steer dynamically, most cars would be in the 1.5 inch range. You would be losing all that if you dumped the throttle on entry. Think about what 1/4 inch does on the RR, then multiply that times 6!
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