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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    294

    Default Collapsible steering column help

    I'm wanting to install a collapsible steering column. My car however has two helms/mounts on the steering shaft. All the ones I can find only have one. Is there such a thing as a split helm that I can bolt together? Any other suggestions? Wanting to make the car as safe as possible.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    DeWitt IA
    Posts
    269

    Default

    You have a GRT?? If so Sweet has a column for that .

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    294

    Default

    Yes sir it's older though (98). I will check it out man thanks!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    294

    Default

    I found it man! Thanks a ton!

  5. #5

    Default safety

    Quote Originally Posted by A ron View Post
    I'm wanting to install a collapsible steering column. My car however has two helms/mounts on the steering shaft. All the ones I can find only have one. Is there such a thing as a split helm that I can bolt together? Any other suggestions? Wanting to make the car as safe as possible.
    I remove the shaft out g body stock steering columns since the column is inside car they are in great condition unlike the ones located under hood the small end is 3/4" and the other end is double d. A regular u joint welds on small end and the double d can be found in most street rod catalogs.
    Last edited by cheaterleaddog; 02-16-2015 at 12:02 AM. Reason: more info

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    294

    Default

    I will look into this as well!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,261

    Default

    We used this in our GRT. The end of the shaft came out to about the firewall and we put a solid shaft with a knuckle from the rack to the collapsible one. The solid shaft had a 2nd heim on it and we welded a mount (plate with hole in it) to the frame right near the firewall.

    http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...nch,33036.html


    You may also be able to use this:
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...SOQPDSDQJMWSGX
    Last edited by merc123; 03-24-2015 at 07:38 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    294

    Default

    I went on and dropped $350 or whatever it was on the one from sweet. Outrageous price but a lot cheaper than a collapsed chest. Thanks for all the help guys.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,123

    Default

    ^^^ I wish everybody thought this way

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    504

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by A ron View Post
    I went on and dropped $350 or whatever it was on the one from sweet. Outrageous price but a lot cheaper than a collapsed chest. Thanks for all the help guys.
    You picked a good one! Put the Sweet shaft in my Street Stock and I LOVE it. The install was easy and it is nice and tight, no slop at all. I may have lost a little money that I could have put into other little things, but safety should always be at the top of everyone's off-season upgrade list.
    Last edited by 72Dubya; 03-24-2015 at 08:42 AM.
    #72W U.M.P Stock Car

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    294

    Default

    Thanks Matt. Yeah I could probably have gotten a nice set of Ohlins for what I've spent on Safety stuff so far, and still have more to do to be as safe as possible but can't afford to not show up to work on Monday.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    504

    Default

    Safety before speed. Always. You definitely have your priorities straight. Some guys that have been at it for years seem to think the opposite.

    I wish you the best of luck in your endeavors, always glad to see someone new step into the dirt racing world!
    #72W U.M.P Stock Car

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,935

    Default

    BiG SAFETY NOTE, when running a collapsible steering column:

    Since the column can collapse, if the set screw that attaches the u-joint to the rack (which never seems to stay in and often overlooked that it's missing) comes out or loosens there is nothing that keeps the column from shortening and pulling off the rack. This can happen in other places depending on how your column is set up in the car.

    You need to attach a hose clamp to the column so it can't shorten on it's own without some added pressure like a wreck. Simply install the hose clamp next to the sliding part of the column (most of these are typically square or a splined shaft) where it hits the larger diameter tube it slides in and out off. This will stop it from shortening and pulling off the rack and thus NO STEERING. The hose clamp will not hold it in a wreck and allow it to collapse yet will keep it where it belongs should the set screw come out.

    You can also put the clamp next to a firewall bearing if your using that, just anything to add resistance to the columns ability to shorten with little to no force.

    I've seen my share of destroyed cars due to this.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,935

    Default

    Ron, the easiest way to install in a older GRT car is to just use a firewall bearing instead of a 2nd rodend on the column. Install the one on the column like normal to the column support and run the sliding end of the column out the foot box/firewall.

    Something like this: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Firewa...haft,2044.html
    Obviously your firewall should be made of something a little thicker then plain .040 colored sheet metal for best results but it does work fine with .040 but I prefer thicker .050 on that piece. You can always add a stiffener bracket if you so desire.

    Too keep the column more straight so it isn't at an extreme angle and gives more foot/gas pedal room and makes the steering wheel more square to the driver, I prefer to run it out the firewall and to the left of the mid plate vertical bar that has the mid plate tabs. So the column isn't running between the vertical bar and the C shaped cut out in the mid plate, it will be on the left side of the vertical bar. Then use a u-joint just outside the fire wall and directly too the rack with another U-joint and you're done.

    Then install the hose clamp on the end of the sliding column where it goes thru the firewall bearing just in front of the u-joint to stop the problem I listed above.

    Also when making the lower half of the rest of the column, be sure to phase the u-joints so they are clocked correctly as this is often overlooked and can cause binding or a non smooth steering action if they have some angle to the u-joints
    Last edited by billetbirdcage; 03-24-2015 at 04:29 PM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    294

    Default

    Billet I scratched my head for an hour thinking how to prevent what you were talking about haha I ended up with a hose clamp where you were talking about and one around the joint at the rack to keep that screw from backing out. Also I agree the sweet column truly is "sweet" compared the sloppy thing that was in it before. Wheel feels very solid. Thanks everybody for your help.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Red Dirt USA
    Posts
    1,024

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by billetbirdcage View Post
    BiG SAFETY NOTE, when running a collapsible steering column:

    Since the column can collapse, if the set screw that attaches the u-joint to the rack (which never seems to stay in and often overlooked that it's missing) comes out or loosens there is nothing that keeps the column from shortening and pulling off the rack. This can happen in other places depending on how your column is set up in the car.

    You need to attach a hose clamp to the column so it can't shorten on it's own without some added pressure like a wreck. Simply install the hose clamp next to the sliding part of the column (most of these are typically square or a splined shaft) where it hits the larger diameter tube it slides in and out off. This will stop it from shortening and pulling off the rack and thus NO STEERING. The hose clamp will not hold it in a wreck and allow it to collapse yet will keep it where it belongs should the set screw come out.

    You can also put the clamp next to a firewall bearing if your using that, just anything to add resistance to the columns ability to shorten with little to no force.

    I've seen my share of destroyed cars due to this.
    Very good advice bbc. We tore up the rf of a brand new car years ago, when the shaft came loose from the rack. I believe Coleman makes an aluminum collar that clamps to the steering shaft, similar to a weight clamp. We used two.....just in case. BTW, our driver commented that its not fun when you come off turn 4, headed to the wall, and you have no steering!
    Last edited by drtrkr244; 03-24-2015 at 07:10 PM.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    pa
    Posts
    218

    Default

    i'm with billet on this, mine has 2 knuckles one at the rack and on the end of the sweet rack witch is the short one for the grt, I had the set screw and lock nut come out leading a heat race it got real exciting and expensive. I locktight the set screws and a clamp over the set screw now. also recommend anyone running a latemodel to use a Schroeder steering wheel, 10 weeks in a cast sucks when you get your thumb in the spokes, like lanigan did.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    538

    Default

    I've always used two extra long set screws with jam nuts & loctite on the joint that connects to the rack plus a hose clamp on the shaft to keep things from casually pulling off. Never had any problems.

    Rak- I have a Schroeder steering wheel. Its a 3 spoke peace sign looking thing. It still breaks thumbs. Is there a certain type you are referring to? Looks like 910FG on their site.

    http://schroedersteering.com/steering-wheels/
    Last edited by FlatTire; 03-25-2015 at 08:28 AM.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,123

    Default

    Simple solution to the thumb deal:
    Don't drive with your thumbs in the steering wheel. I don't even do that in a street car. This helps with wrist injuries also. In a hard impact, your hand will slide off of the wheel instead of twisting like it does when your thumb is inside.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    205

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt49 View Post
    Simple solution to the thumb deal:
    Don't drive with your thumbs in the steering wheel. I don't even do that in a street car. This helps with wrist injuries also. In a hard impact, your hand will slide off of the wheel instead of twisting like it does when your thumb is inside.
    This is what I taught my daughter while kart racing. I see she does this while driving on the street now that she is older. good habits sometimes stay with you.

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