Has anyone tried this on either corners of their car? I found it on hypertech's website and wondered if it would work on any corners of A dirt late model. It is basically the dual stage set up but the lock out nut is on the bottom of the slider.
With today's cars staying on the left front so hard I think it MAY could be used there to enter the corner on a softer spring then as the left front lifts make it get on the single spring that may be a 5 or 600 to help get the car on the rr a bit more and maybe help it scotch? I could be way out of the ball park here.
This was originally used on the 5th coil years ago, its a digressive rate meaning the first inch of compression it's say a 350# rate (the bottom spring) then once it gets a certain amount of load on the lower spring it starts using both springs for a softer rate, like say 200# (depending on spring combo's).
It's fairly simple but gets complicated if the coilover has any static load on it which the 5th coil have very little like maybe a few rounds of preload unlike a corner spring.
You will likely have serious issue's trying to use it on one of the corners of the cars cause of the static weight on the coilover at ride hieght, not impossible but gets really hard to preload the top spring that much and not run into problems and total lengths of springs, coil bind and what not.
Most guys use it on the rf, you are basically using the soft spring to hold the car up til you get on the gas. Once the nose gets pinned then the lock out nut enables the bottom spring only which should be ultra stiff. all you are doing is getting on a stiff spring at a lower ride height so that the front end responds better. The hard part is finding out the correct height for the lockout nut. Just like bump stops and bump shims only using two springs and a lock out nut and slider. That's where the value of having a spring analyzer from Gale force or accuforce or rebel or Brian Gray comes into play, because without one I wouldn't run the stack or bumps.
Most guys use it on the rf, you are basically using the soft spring to hold the car up til you get on the gas. Once the nose gets pinned then the lock out nut enables the bottom spring only which should be ultra stiff. all you are doing is getting on a stiff spring at a lower ride height so that the front end responds better. The hard part is finding out the correct height for the lockout nut. Just like bump stops and bump shims only using two springs and a lock out nut and slider. That's where the value of having a spring analyzer from Gale force or accuforce or rebel or Brian Gray comes into play, because without one I wouldn't run the stack or bumps.
The OP is asking about a digressive spring setup but you are talking about a progressive setup which behaves more like bump stop. A much less aggressive bump stop but like a bump stop nonetheless.
The key to any setup like this is low speed rebound control. It can be very difficult to dial in without a really good understanding of how it works and some track testing time.
Even with a spring and shock load tester I found stacked springs and stops on shocks too hard to really dial in consistantly compared to a single spring and a rubber bump combination. Did we get it right yes but if you miss by a very small amount you can be horriable real fast.
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Digressive dual stage setup
Originally Posted by King1
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