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Thread: Anti-dive ????

  1. #1

    Default Anti-dive ????

    Can someone tell me how you figure out how much anti-dive a car has in it? How much anti dive should a modified have if any at all... Thanks!!!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,319

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    Most have none. The shaft in the front upper a arm will be flat and not running uphill to the front.
    BUCKLE UP NOW, YA HEAR?

  3. #3

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    Anti-dive is the difference in angle between the mounts of the upper and lower control arms. If there is a greater difference in the front, there is anti-dive. If there is a greater difference in the rear, there is pro-dive. I don't care to have either, but I have heard of builders using small amounts of anti-dive, and some tried pro-dive. I guess it would be a personnel preference.
    Bill W. and Dr. Bob......who could have known.

  4. #4

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    Would you check it with a agle Finder with our car at ride hight? Or would you measure it from the distance between the front and back of the lower to the upper to get a desired measurement ???

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    253

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    Quote Originally Posted by 20fan20 View Post
    Would you check it with a agle Finder with our car at ride hight? Or would you measure it from the distance between the front and back of the lower to the upper to get a desired measurement ???
    Private message me and give me your email address. I'll send you diagrams and the mathematical formulas to correctly calculate how much anti-suspension(anti-dive) you chassis has.
    Find me on Facebook: Impetus Dirt Racing Technologies

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by 20fan20 View Post
    Can someone tell me how you figure out how much anti-dive a car has in it? How much anti dive should a modified have if any at all... Thanks!!!!
    If you understand instant centers, anti dive is kinda similar to that except longways instead of sideways.

    IIRC, when doing instant centers, you find the imaginary place where the control arms would meet and draw a line from the contact patch.

    to find anti-dive, you do the same thing but you're looking at the car from the side and looking at whether the control arms are tipped towards the front of the car or the back of the car, where they would intersect, and then drawing a line from the contact patch.

    Then you compare that to the CG, aimed right at the CG would be 100% anti dive (and very bad since your springs wouldn't soak up bumps) Similar thing as setting up your instant centers to be 0% body roll. Bad for suspension compliance.

    As for how much we need, no idea.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    247

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    You might consider just understanding what anti-dive and pro-dive are and what it is trying to achieve. Then think about if you want that action more or less than you currently have. You can get real deep into this part of front suspension real quick or keep it basic and understand if you have a problem or not.

    I had an old car several years ago, had a bunch of anti-dive in the RF and the car just would not lay over on the RF well at all. Made a big change to reduce that anti-dive and it helped a bunch to rely more on the spring.

    I don't know if you will find what the "right" value is on this subject.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,336

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    Most people only check the uppers but the lowers can have them in it too. Most have some on the lowers. So your NET would be taking into consideration the measurements on both. you can just measure your mounting bolts to the ground to get a rough idea. If you don't know the best it to have it level. and adjust it a little at a time you will run different in different applications, asphalt we run both fronts with either given the package. Its basically introducing a suspension bind IMO

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