Breaks

[CodyHayesRacing]

I don't have any breaks I have replaced the master cylinder wheel cylinders and bleed the brakes when I push the break pedal the car barely slows down Any ideas on what the problem might be

[save the racers]

What kind of master cylinder do you have ,Is this a drum brake on the rear?

[powerslide]

Did you bench bleed the new master cylinders?

[72Dubya]

Have you checked every inch of brake line for leaks, including all fittings?

Are your brake pads glazed over and need a good sanding?

Did you install your new wheel cylinders with the bleeders facing up?

Does the brake pedal have good "feel"?

As powerslide said, did you bench bleed master cylinders?

Also sometimes you can bleed the brakes and hit a pocket of fluid that still has a pocket of air behind it, so it appears you have properly bled the brakes. It would be worth it to re-bleed, ALWAYS starting with the RR.

Just check any "common sense" stuff first that can be over looked and you can probably find your issues. Believe me, I have overlooked simple things in the past because I was looking for a bigger issue lol

[powerslide]

Another question to ask does he have brake gauges or a brake shut off? Clear lines to see if you have bubbles?

[CodyHayesRacing]

It has drum breaks and I have done everything you guys have said it has a stock master cylinder and it doesn't have a break shut off or break gauges

[CodyHayesRacing]

I took the break booster off because I think it might be bad but haven't tried the breaks yet

[72Dubya]

Have someone spin each front wheel by hand while the car is jacked up in the air and then apply the brakes, and then try to have them try as hard as they can to spin the wheel even with the brake applied. If they are able to spin the tire whatsoever then you can trace the issue to that wheel.... they should not be able to break loose by human power... but if both fronts do that then you have a bigger issue. You can check the rear the same way by taking out the axles and spinning the wheels individually and applying brakes.

If you find one wheels brakes faulty or the fronts or rears faulty you can reduce your search.

[72Dubya]

Also, check that you adjusted the drum brakes correctly, too loose and they won't brake worth squat.

[stock car driver]

brakes are car brakes
break is to break a bone

[powerslide]

brakes are car brakes
break is to break a bone

Thank you for your contribution to the thread captain obvious.

[stock car driver]

Thank you for your contribution to the thread captain obvious.

Back at ya.

[Fox_hunter42]

does the brake peddle seem really hard to push? Maybe check your hoses

[RTK Motorsports]

Invest in a mighty vac, takes any and all guess work out of bleeding brakes, just make sure your fluid keeps getting topped off.

[speedbuggy]

I'm betting removing the booster fixed it. He hasn't posted since then.

I never heard of anybody running a break booster on a Dirt Stock/Pure Stock/Bomber/whatever-you-want-to-call-it anyways.

Hey, CodyHayesRacing. Can you let us know if it's fixed? If it's not, I sure everyone on here can help you figure it out.

[SRXSRULE]

You would be surprised on how many pure, econo, hobby stock cars have the same brakes it came with from the factory, including the brake booster. Also, if you remove the brake booster and keep the stock master cylinder its never going to work well. You need a master cylinder from a car that did NOT coming with power brakes IE: 60's-70's corvette.

I bought 2 used cars over the years and the first thing I did was completely redo the JUNK brake system they were using. Always amazed at the stuff people will race with. Eric

[speedbuggy]

You would be surprised on how many pure, econo, hobby stock cars have the same brakes it came with from the factory, including the brake booster. Also, if you remove the brake booster and keep the stock master cylinder its never going to work well. You need a master cylinder from a car that did NOT coming with power brakes IE: 60's-70's corvette.

I bought 2 used cars over the years and the first thing I did was completely redo the JUNK brake system they were using. Always amazed at the stuff people will race with. Eric

Yeah, I should have mentioned about having to use a different master cyl. Been so long since I re-did a pure stock brake system, I totally forgot.

[oldgold]

Yeah, I should have mentioned about having to use a different master cyl. Been so long since I re-did a pure stock brake system, I totally forgot.

i have been dealing with this same problem i removed booster and used the master cylinder that was for power brake ,the car would not stop unless you used both feet. i was told of 2 options move the master cylinder pin up to the second hole on the pedal about 1.5 inchs makes it a 5to 1 ratio from a 6 to 1 ratio. and is as good as a manual brake car.or use a dodge caravan master cylinder of 15/16 bore to get more brake pressure for same effort.gm master is 1.125 piston caravans can be found in 7/8 bore but of course with smaller piston in m/c pressure will go up but so will travel. now which pad is best Black or performance friction?