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need help with traction on 2013 gen x
i am having a very hard time trying to get forward drive in this car when the track dries out when the track has a little drive the car is good not bad my coils are as follows LF 500 RF 375 RR 250 LR 200 AND I AM RUNNING 85 POUNDS LR LEFT IS 54% REAR IS 54 % CROSS IS 49 %
WHAT CAN I DO OR LOOK FOR
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Possibly try raising your wedge we run around 150 pounds in our genx on a small dry slick track you don't have to go to the extreme but bump it up some and what is your 5th coil spring and how much preload is in it
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What adjustments are you making as the track slicks off? Shock adjustments? 4-bar adjustments? J-bar adjustments? A little of each?
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HP,
Curious, did you add all LR on bite or spread the wealth (if you know what I mean)?
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Chain the right rear, and get the spring about half an inch from the nut
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softer LR spring will induce hike but will give you less drive, possibly why some much wedge is needed
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Originally Posted by racerkid12
softer LR spring will induce hike but will give you less drive, possibly why some much wedge is needed
Not necessarily... It all depends on car attitude when you pick up the gas. Your thinking will likely only apply at the start of the race for an experienced driver.
Modern Day Wedge Racing
Florence -2
Atomic - 2
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Can someone please explain to me why the softer spring on the LR induces more hike, or faster hike.
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Originally Posted by keeks
Can someone please explain to me why the softer spring on the LR induces more hike, or faster hike.
When weight transfers laterally from left side to right side in the corner, the ride height will increase based on the wheel rate. If the lr loses 200# with a 200#/in wheel rate, the ride height will go up 1". If the wheel rate is 100#/in, the ride height increases 2".
Modern Day Wedge Racing
Florence -2
Atomic - 2
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Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
When weight transfers laterally from left side to right side in the corner, the ride height will increase based on the wheel rate. If the lr loses 200# with a 200#/in wheel rate, the ride height will go up 1". If the wheel rate is 100#/in, the ride height increases 2".
Which increases LR thrust angle faster which is why a softer LR usually yields more LR drive than a stiff LR. It's contrary to the "heavy spring gets the weight" rule but is the correct way of thinking about it on any car with a LR spring behind or that "hikes" in the corners.
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Originally Posted by Matt49
Which increases LR thrust angle faster which is why a softer LR usually yields more LR drive than a stiff LR. It's contrary to the "heavy spring gets the weight" rule but is the correct way of thinking about it on any car with a LR spring behind or that "hikes" in the corners.
what if the lr is off the spring when on the chain limiter?
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I would just try using the lr shock in back of the rear, no shock in front of the rear. With only one shock mounted in the back of the rear provides a ton of traction when its dry slick. I run my mb all the time that way.
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Originally Posted by stock car driver
what if the lr is off the spring when on the chain limiter?
Then spring doesn't matter at that point.
Modern Day Wedge Racing
Florence -2
Atomic - 2
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I do not have a gen x, but was wondering if removing front shock would help for all 4 bar cars? Also my spring behind is not unloded when on the chain. im scaling at 80lbs with out front shock, than at 140 hooked up
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That's the rod pressure in the shock doing that. Take the shock off and run the adjuster nut down until you have the same left rear bite numbers.
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I don't think I could crank that much into shock nut to do that, already using channel lock to get this far, also these numbers are with driver in car
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The theory behind removing the traction shock is that even with no rebound valving the shock still has seal drag and friction from the piston moving through the oil that generates drag and slows the rotation of the birdcage. Delaying the car reaching maximum hike reduces available instant traction. If you remove the traction shock and don't add wedge to the car to get back
To the same scale numbers I can't see it having a benefit. If your car doesn't hike down on entry it means nothing anyway ...
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Is it common to have to use something to crank that much LR into car to keep everything else correct?
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I've found this to help:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...FQesaQodW2wAOA
But cover them up best you can when washing or they start to rust.
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