brad penn oil good or bad ????

[highflyer924]

Think of switching to brad penn oil 20w50. Have always used 20w50 vr1 valvoline.

[dereksehi]

I never did like Brad Penn didn't seem to keep the engines very clean all of my customers and I made the switch to Valvoline VR1 synthetic and it made a difference. What is your reason for wanting to switch?

[highflyer924]

Have a oil dealer offering to supply my oil if I use brad penn. Was just looking for some input on the oil from racers that have used it.

[powerslide]

Just make sure you get the oil up to 120-140 or so before you hammer on it. I don't believe in all the oil wars, unless you have an issue I think it will be fine with brad penn or walmart oil. If someone is sponsoring it take it, plenty of guys running it and not having issues.

[rakracing]

I always ran vr-1 oil, know a lot of guys using brad penn with no problems think its more about the zinc content, the vr1 I use is the racing version with the zinc in it.

[save the racers]

I've dyno'd several brands of oil.If you stay with the same weight they were all very close.i would have no problems using it if I had to pay for it even better if it was free.I would look in to switching to a liter weight with it.If you are using 20/50 might try 10/40.Even at the same weights brad penn feels thicker.What kind of car are you racing?

[highflyer924]

Running a street stock with open motor rules

[save the racers]

That is what we were running it in.We were buying our motors and that is what the engine builder recommend.On the motors I was building, I installed an oil temp gauge.The temp was 250-270 with synthetic oil so 20/50 might be the better choice for you.On the modified oil temp was lower and on dry sumped l/m it was lower.That is where the liter oil might be tried.

[Lizardracing]

I do not believe that a 20/50 oil is ever ever needed. The thicker oil can very well cause higher oil temperatures, dizzy gear wear, oil aeration, oil return, etc.
With proper clearances a 10/30 oil is plenty. So is 15lbs idle pressure that rises quickly 50 lbs at race speeds.

[50j]

With a flat tappet lifter the additive package has been a concern since most over the counter oils are formulated for emissions and hydraulic roller lifters. So far never a problem with Brad Penn or VR-1, but if the Mobil 1 stays cooler maybe it'd be something to research.

[powerslide]

I do not believe that a 20/50 oil is ever ever needed. The thicker oil can very well cause higher oil temperatures, dizzy gear wear, oil aeration, oil return, etc.
With proper clearances a 10/30 oil is plenty. So is 15lbs idle pressure that rises quickly 50 lbs at race speeds.

Pull a drain plug next time after the feature and see how thin the oil gets when its 240-270. That thin oil is ok for drag cars that the oil temps never get over 200 but its a different world in the roundy round. Also when that motor w/ 15lbs and 50lbs gets some wear it may be 5 and 40. Build some cushion into it.

[mike22l]

I've won the points championship 5 years in a row in a limited latemodel and 1 year mini mod. All on Brad Penn and absoutely zero bearing issues or heating issues. I run @enn in all my races motors and I use straight 40. I did run partially syn 10W40 this year in a 2.3 to compare 40 versus 10w40...no issues...Great oil. If you are overheating, fix your cooling issue

[PereaRacing20]

So what would be a good oil to run if it is breaking down after a heat race? I have ran 20/50 vr1 for several years with no problems. but lately have been losing oil pressure after the heat race and the engine warmin up to around 220 degrees. Oil pressure goes back up after it cools

[RCJ]

That sounds like the bearings are getting looser.Some oil pressure drop from cold to hot is normal.Our L/M will idle cold at 60lbs and 30lbs after feature(.0027 mains).Our other motor(.003 mains) with valve spring and lifter oilers will idle at 35 cold and 15 after feature.Both run around 70lbs at speed.

[race81]

I ran valvoline racing oil for many years...then switched to pennzoil..and the last two years I ran brad penn....its all about the clearances. Not alot of differences in oil these days. Our engines were always on alcohol, were warmed up properly and maintenenced regularly. The last couple of years ran an accusump....seemed to help also.

[Renegade Cust Susp]

Think of switching to brad penn oil 20w50. Have always used 20w50 vr1 valvoline.

Made the switch from VR1 to Penn semi syn 20w50 over a decade ago and have had zero problems, oil comes out super clean and ran in sprint cars and modifiers. I prefer the Penn oil. And have run with and without coolers with no problems.

[truvahorse]

Valvoline VR1 best.

[over4T]

Most of the oils are pretty good these days. Used Brad Penn and was happy with that as I was with their predecessor, Kendall back in the '60s. Started getting a little pricey so went to Valvoline VR 1. A lot of friends use and like it, the price was right and I own stock in Ashland, their manufacturer. Win, win until the California EPA took it off the shelves in the auto parts stores. I stocked up on every case I could find before that happened. Recently been experimenting with Lucas non-syn and I'm impressed how clean it is after a few nights in our Super Stock and temps seem to be down a little. Sadly, the prices have started to skyrocket on that. too. Guess Forrest Lucas has to come up with more bucks for all the things he owns or sponsors.

[over4T]

Pulled apart one of my 13.5 to 1 engines yesterday for a freshen up. Had 42 shows on it and been sitting on a stand for over a year and only had Brad Penn in it from day one. Engine had been drained before storage and everything still had green coating everything. Bearings had little wear but will be replaced, crank ( a GM 1182 forged one I've used in 2 previous engines) is still standard and will take only a light polish, SRP pistons look like new and need only a little carbon cleaning off the tops. It definitely will stay on Brad Penn.

[Jeffery]

I have run Brad Penn, and VR1. Both worked OK. But after researching this topic to no end, I use CenPeCo 20W50.

I quit VR1 because it’s a domestic/foreign oil formulation. Don’t like the idea of my race car running on some blood from overseas.

Brad Penn oil and CenPeCo, are both oils from sweet, sulphur free crude wells. Bright parrifin base stocks.

CenPeCo is available down the street, nearest Brad Penn is a 90 mile round trip for me.

CenPeCo 20W50 is also about $6/quart. Last Brad Penn I bought was close if not $8/quart.

CenPeCo is hydrocracked to Grade III standards, their additives are almost double the 5 of anything else on the market. That information is hard to dig up on Brad Penn or VR1, for me anyway.

Just makes more sense and saves me money from what I can tell.