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Thread: Decking support

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    Default Decking support

    I'm going to replace some of the decking on my Mastersbilt project. Right now the decking has zero support under it... other than two L-shaped brackets it looks like the side body panels were the only thing holding up the decking.

    My question is what do you guys use for support? 1" steel? Aluminum angle? Are you running it around the entire perimeter of the deck?

    Thanks...
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    Default

    Nothing around entire perimeter just ur rear spoiler bar the aluminum angle right behind driver and aluminum angle at firewall that's all u need

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    687

    Default

    I run an extra support halfway between the driver and the spoiler all the way across. And on the right side and extra support between the front support at the firewall and the one behind the driver.

  4. #4
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    This car didn't have any support between the rear spoiler bar and the firewall. I can see how another support behind the driver would help keep it all together... this deck was pretty much falling in on itself.

    Thanks for the help...
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
    Class of 2019

  5. #5

    Default

    One all the way across at firewall, a stamped one on the hoop just behind door on both sides, 2/3 cross just at fuel cell and then spoiler bar. Nothing going forward /aft other then body panels.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    488

    Default

    I run alot of smaller pieces of decking. I'm my opinion it looks better and it makes it much stronger than three large pieces across the back. I typically have 5 or 6. Plus you don't tear up as much when you do get the wall. You can just replace half as much.

  7. #7
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    I only have a 36" brake from my hot rod building days so I likely will build a few smaller section. I do have access to a 12' footer a few minutes away...
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    A 36" isn't gonna do much. I have a 72" and it's a struggle doing doors. Most of the time I borrow a friends 10 ft.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    I would make the drive and bend my decking, doors and quarters in the bigger break. It is worth having them one piece. Much better looking and much stronger/better overall.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    2,930

    Default

    Always believed the deck should be firm, and supported to take the aero load and use it properly.

    Just say no...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    234

    Default

    Not the greatest picture, but here's my car with the body braces on (no body though), ignore the piece of angle behind the driver (running parallel with the car), missed that when we took the picture lol

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  12. #12
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    Thanks for the pix and suggestions. I'll likely use the big break for the body sides and my small one for the deck and misc. bits.

    What thickness material is commonly used? The existing deck on the car is pretty thin... Maybe .023?
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
    Class of 2019

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    662

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    I frame the outer perimeter with 16 ga 3\4 square tubing welded in between t bars .That's the way we did it in fiberglass body days.Its a little extra weight but the deck is solid and does not break apart or come loose.I had never thought about the down force deal that's a good point. We are willing to carry maybe 10 pounds extra for the durability.

  14. #14
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    Dec 2007
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    We also only have 6 ft break doors are big pain like he said.We have making the door straight at front and making fender side one piece instead of like every one makes them .This time I did it like performance bodies does their doors that ship ups I am still on fence about that but it bid make it a lot easier to get uphill angle to nose.The way we did one piece it was hard to do and keep door seam straight

  15. #15
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    RW57.... I may just do some perimeter bracing but use some 2" water pipe... If you saw me drive you'd know why!

    SCD... Thanks for the .040 number. That seems to be about right.

    I'd like to thank all of you for your continuing help and suggestions... Getting back in the saddle is going to be fun.
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
    Class of 2019

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    662

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    You could use round as well its just square is much easier to drill I don't know about 2 in though you can't drive that bad LOL. I was drilling a hole in front bumper for nose should have drilled from back thru nose dummy here knew better and drilled it from front missed center of tube making a nice slot in a new md3 nose .
    Last edited by RW57; 02-11-2016 at 05:10 PM.

  17. #17
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    It seems that every time I buy something new I'm always the first to dent, ding or break it.
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
    Class of 2019

  18. #18
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    Naw... just funnin' you. But I DID have a sportsman car around 1970 with a 6" well casing front bumper...
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
    Class of 2019

  19. #19

    Default

    I run a piece of 1 inch x1/8 aluminum angle down the length of my sides. From firewall brace back to spoiler brace. Gives it just a little rigidity when someone is leaning on or pushing.

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