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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    thedirtysouth
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    4,013

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    Quote Originally Posted by stock car driver View Post
    Thanks for being a loyal follower.
    one thing I know for sure is I want be following you , unless im lapping you.....now go back where you belong....

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,123

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    Quote Originally Posted by stock car driver View Post
    bahaha baffling is you thinking anyone cares about your pissing match with me. You should read all my posts on this much more slowly and about 10 more times. The only radiators with smaller tubes are the super cheap knock offs, none of the more commonly used name brand radiators run that thin of tubes. Maybe you should be messaging the big name radiator builders, Im sure they'll gladly pay your consulting fee!

    For sale I have one Matt49= good for spell checking your posts and basically pointing out irrelevant details no matter how small. Often says the same thing over and over worded in a different way because he thinks the more words the better. Very loyal and determined. $.99 please take him, I cant meet his needs any more Im too busy selling race parts like

    Ultrashield containment seats for $550 each shipped
    Add a brand new Nexgen head and neck restraint with a seat for $1100 total shipped.
    If you are saying that a thinner tubed radiator of EQUAL quality (and with a pump adequate to maintain flow) would cool better than a thicker tubed radiator...then I think we agree...which is why I'm trying to have a DISCUSSION about it. To see if we are saying the same thing or if I am misunderstanding and have a difference of opinion.

    So I wonder why the "good" radiator manufacturers don't make a thinner tube radiator. Did they find that the flow restriction was the issue and that most folks weren't using a pump adequate to overcome this (meaning the heat build-up from slower flow was more of a con than the pro of additional turbulence)?
    Is the flow restriction the only reason for the inadequate cooling or were other factors involved in the design of the more cheaply manufactured radiator at play?
    These are legitimate questions I'm trying to ask in the process of having a discussion.
    You make it a "pissing contest" when you throw in attempted put downs. Words are a good thing. They aide in peoples' understanding of the ideas you're trying to communicate. I won't apologize for using them.
    We can continue with the discussion and perhaps learn something, teach others, etc. Or you can continue to insult people's intelligence. It's up to you.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,123

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    The only time our tracks stay heavy past the first couple of heat races is usually in the spring. What are you guys doing to get extra air to the radiators when it's hammer-down?
    It seems to become more challenging as we get better at sealing off the nose. I was thinking of just putting some holes in the nose with a screen behind it and then it could always be sealed off later. I'm not a fan of the notch in the valence but maybe that would work better...

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    464

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    I just put a new Afco double-pass radiator in my 604 crate this winter and I've also notched the front valence. I'm curious as to how that will affect my water temps as my old radiator was on its last legs toward the end of the season. I've had water temps ranging anywhere from 220-240 which I really would love to see that drop about 20 degrees overall. We'll see possibly next weekend as I'm planning to race then.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Lost, but way ahead of schedule
    Posts
    1,514

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    In my part of the world (Northern IL) we'll have nights where it is hammer down through the feature. Not often but it happens. I have two ovals backed by screen in my filler panel (like Matt49 eluded to) that I just tape over if cool enough out, or for hotlaps (to reduce the amount of mud getting through). Each is about 3" high and maybe 8-10" across. Cutting the valance isn't something I've tried because you can't really "undo" it, and I've got bigger fish to fry than aerodynamics. My funny little story about this topic is from 3 years ago, when I just got back into racing. We had a lot of rainouts that year and I was just looking to get some seat time. So I made the 4 hour trek down to Quincy, IL one Sunday. As I was taping up my filler panel before hotlaps, I heard a meager voice ask "How often you gotta open them up?" As I began to answer, I turned, and there was Kenny Schrader in a firesuit (he was running a Modifed). My mind kinda went "uuhhh..." but I quickly remembered he's just like us, looking to have some fun on a Sunday night. He did tell me though, that back in the day he'd just cut some "slits" in the filler panel that he could bend up (almost like a scoop) to let air in, then push them back down when not needed. I appreciated his input!
    Last edited by TheJet-09; 02-16-2016 at 03:04 PM.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,929

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    I was under the impression that the double and triple pass radiators were used to create a stall in the radiator?

    I think they say not to run restrictors and use 1 to 1 pulleys, then the water is faster inside the engine, and then slows down in the radiator.

    Anyway, to the OP, get the double pass, 1 to 1 pulleys and a big fan, you will be fine. Thats what we run currently and it works with no shroud, other than a top cover. This year i made a shroud so i can crank up the timing and lean it out alittle.

    Just say no...

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    509

    Default

    Afco's have a taller flange on the top and bottom to hook a shroud to.

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