Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: More Drive off

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    23

    Default More Drive off

    Ok stat this New Pavement off.
    Entry, mid turn car handles and feels great. Loosing ground off corner and exit.
    Threw in 2 rounds into sway bar(was 0 load)
    52 rear
    52 cross
    57 lt
    running 550 lf 600 rf.
    225 lr 200 rr.
    Have 1.5" travel lf 2.0" rf
    1.75 LR 2.0 rr
    temps lf145 rf 175
    lr165 rr185
    Its not crazy loose just have to roll into throttle slower so I don't break loose. Havent driven pavement for about 20 yrs and have some bad habbits from dirt still to work out.
    Guess im just looking for a a little help on drive off without really affecting entry and mid too much or drastic change.
    A friend had said to put a 200 lr spring in to allow more weight transfer to LR but I thought that was backwards from what I did on dirt. Is that a good idea or bad advice. Need to fing about 3tenths to keep up with leaders.
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,064

    Default

    Three Link Rear? Angles. Sway Bar also any preload? Panhard bar height and rake? Cross and Rear are close. Is rear end Square? Get Complete Tire Temps. Alot of the asphalt mods is also geometry. Get some bar angles and dynamic Rear Steer numbers. I can help you a lot on these.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    23

    Default

    3 link.
    pull bar is 13* 30"bar. I do have the old dirt adjust bolt and bar is center of rear to rotors. not wheels.
    lt bar at 11* Rt 4*
    Rear is square but lightly bent with slight toe out. Had on align machine at work.
    sway bar at 1.5 round preload and 1 1/8 bar
    panhard Dr (rearend) at 11 3/4" frm at 13.0 = 1.25"
    tires
    lf 128 129 126 rf 168 152 145
    lr 147 150 155 rr 183 173 163 tires are tower city and have built in rake they say

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,064

    Default

    Im having a hard time decoding this info shoot me a PM so I can ask some questions and give you some things to think about


    Quote Originally Posted by BW51 View Post
    3 link.
    pull bar is 13* 30"bar. I do have the old dirt adjust bolt and bar is center of rear to rotors. not wheels.
    lt bar at 11* Rt 4*
    Rear is square but lightly bent with slight toe out. Had on align machine at work.
    sway bar at 1.5 round preload and 1 1/8 bar
    panhard Dr (rearend) at 11 3/4" frm at 13.0 = 1.25"
    tires
    lf 128 129 126 rf 168 152 145
    lr 147 150 155 rr 183 173 163 tires are tower city and have built in rake they say

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    102

    Default

    LF too cold. Lower panhard bar and put wedge in it. May even want to add more LR spring. Your rear link angles are odd for asphalt. RR up about 1/3 the distance the RR is traveling. LR up somewhere between 2-6* more equals more bite. Third link down to front 6-9*. With the heavy LR spring, you are not getting a lot of travel in the LR and therefore not a lot of rear steer out of the corner to tighten.

    Could also try lightening the LR and taking spring down to the 125-150 range and adding more LR arm angle. This is usually done in combination with heavy RR 300 range and low panhard bar angle, with about 5* down to front in third link. This setup requires a lot less rebound in LR or car will be loose in.

    Either setup will benefit from increased rebound in LF shock.

    Just a few things to think about.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    102

    Default

    More than one way to skin a cat. Creates lots of rear steer to the left tightening chassis off.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,064

    Default

    Depends on you setup package we run a soft LR now and different LR angle to help dive the LR down on throttle. Also good for a LR bump setup. Its all amount dynamic rear steer. We have it about 1/8 at mid turn LR back which also helps keep the nose down we also arrange it so it pulls the Rear under the car on throttle so it adds rear percent although its all slight, we run big caster as well.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    23

    Default

    when you say lower panhardt bar down. Do you mean equally or just the frame side.
    Both sides adjustable on my car and have 1.25 inch split higher on frame.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BW51 View Post
    when you say lower panhardt bar down. Do you mean equally or just the frame side.
    Both sides adjustable on my car and have 1.25 inch split higher on frame.
    When I am talking about dropping panhard bar to put heat in LF, I am referring to dropping the entire thing. Lots of ways this can be set up. I like to run about a 300# rt rear and a 135-150#LR. Bar about 8-10" and lower on the rt frame rail than on the axle. (reverse split).

    as mentioned in the above post: soft spring in LR and lots of angle allow the LR to move back under squat and ahead back ahead as power is planted. Loads the heck out of this tire. Stiff rt rear spring and low panhard bar resist rear roll and keep LF planted.

    If you decide to try something like this, keep in mind to use shock pressures to control load transfer. Increase compression in LR and reduce compression in RR. Reduce rebound in LR.

    Bob

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0
Copyright © 2017 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.