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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    101

    Default does anyone even build claimer motors anymore?

    Stepping up to Imca Amod after running sportmod for some time and and looking at motor options. 20 years ago guys built real claimer motors but now i see 7-10k IMCA Amod motors. My question is can you be competitive with a speedway cast steel 383 kit? i dont mind spending money on a motor but dont want to give it away on a claim for 1000. i think with the dry slick tracks around here, the hard hoosier and limit rpms to 7500 one would be fine with "claimer" kit. Thoughts?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    307

    Default

    We've build some lower budget claim engines but a cast steel crankshaft in an Amod is going to be a time bomb. You could build a strong claim engine for $6000-$6500 wont be anything fancy but it would be realiable.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    101

    Default

    hmm it only needs to last 30 laps then i can claim your 6k motor. lol i hate claiming.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    tulsa america
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    When is the last time you have heard of a claim in the mods?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    101

    Default

    TRUE but (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)ed if it wont be mine that starts the new trend. lol Been looking at CNC 383 short blocks for @ 2500. seems like a good deal.

  6. #6

    Default

    Get a forged crank. You'll be money ahead. We broke an internally balanced 383 cast crank in 29 nights. That was in an IMCA stock car about 10 years ago when we can a 350 CFM carb and only turned about 6500 RPM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    422

    Default

    Guys don't build cheap engines anymore because they are buying reliability. Problem with chip rule now you can't spin a 355 over 8k like the old days. Valve float was the original rpm limiter. lol

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    13,640

    Default

    I have in the past, run quite a few of the OEM cast 400 GM cranks. I never broke one. It all depends on what you are willing to potentially lose. There isn't a money-back gaurantee with the better parts either.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -2
    Atomic - 2

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,119

    Default

    My friends used to run cast 400 cranks in the LM's in the 70's and 80's... 500/550 HP deals. They would run 'em one season and sell 'em. Pretty reliable in that application.

    While most guys have jumped on the crate deal here in NE WI some guys still like the driveability of a claim engine over the Mexican engines. Last week I visited with one of my buddies who crews on an A-mod. they do have a crate but they run the claim engine most every night on the chance they get a tacky track and they can break away from the pack... still seems to work.

    My son hope's to resume his driving next season. He has a WISSOTA MWM that he will run as an IMCA A-mod since the IMCA tracks are closer to his home. I think he plans on keeping his present engine in the car while switching to an aluminum intake and four barrel. No crates for him...
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
    Class of 2019

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    101

    Default

    around here we almost never see tracks that are tacky. red dirt and very dry slick. Im going to roll the dice and buy a claimer 383 kit from speedway or Powerhouse and see how it holds up. i believe if i limit it to 7400 and with the dry slick(low torque load) they will last. throw some vortec aftermarket heads on and go have some fun.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    393

    Default

    Keep the compression fairly low and the RPM low and a hypereutectic piston will live reasonably well. I still prefer forged pistons though. The cast crank will live fine in my experience.

    I would put a VERY mild cam in it and turn it no more than 7000 RPM. I am personally canging to a 6400 RPM deal like the crates in order to mimic the driveable power of the crate. 110 to 114 lobe separation and no more than 240 degrees duration at .050"

    Honestly though on a slick track you are just banging your head against a wall if you don't have a 604 in an IMCA car.

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