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 Best Pinto Spindle?
Who makes the best pinto spindle? I have been using Allstar and it seams like the smallest little bump and they snap in half. I don't have to worry about checking for a bent one because they just snap. You would think that a balljoint would bend before the spindle breaks. Original ford isn't an option because of supply so does someone use a brand they feel is better, or is everything Chinese junk ?
Dave
2012 UMP Stock Car National Champions.
2013 UMP Modified Rookie of the Year
2014 Kankakee Speedway UMP Modified Champion
2016 Fairbury American Legion Speedway UMP Modified Champion
2016 Kankakee Speedway UMP Modified Champion
2016 UMP Modified, Northen IL Regional Champion
2018 UMP Modified, #2 National Points Standings
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The 3 piece short arm (pinto) metric spindle that Speedway makes is the strongest aftermarket spindle out there. I have yet to have one bend or break on my car or any of my customer cars. I have been very happy with them.
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ford readily available all over 35-140 each
car-part.com
all the rest are soft Chinese metal including the speedway 3 piece
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I'm guessing they are breaking past the upper ball joint at the bend? We weld a gusset on each side by the b/j past the bend. That has cured our problem of them breaking.
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are they the standard 10º Ford spindle, or are they a 7/8º re-machined spindle.
The original Ford units are virtually indestructible, they are a nodular steel.
Aftermarket units are cast iron, or junk cast steel.
I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.
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Other than the obvious answer of 3*, what's the difference between the 10* and 7* spindle. I guess what I mean is, WHERE is the difference? Will running a 10* and switching to a 7* cause more negative camber or positive camber, does it affect caster, or just a bump steer issue?
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We weld gussets on ours as previously mentioned by someone else. Ours were breaking very easily too! I would take a shot in the wheel that wouldn't even damage the wheel cover but it would break the spindle. We haven't had an issue since we started putting gussets on them. We were buying ours from Afco and the engineer told me multiple times that they were a forged unit and they didn't know why they were breaking. They are clearly not a forged unit. I will give them this though. They warrantied the product and gave me new ones that they put more of a radius in the bend instead of a straight cut 90 where the clearance for the balljoint, but those broke as well
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 Originally Posted by JCSullivan00
Other than the obvious answer of 3*, what's the difference between the 10* and 7* spindle. I guess what I mean is, WHERE is the difference? Will running a 10* and switching to a 7* cause more negative camber or positive camber, does it affect caster, or just a bump steer issue?
the top ball joint hole is machined farther out toward tire. (back cutting the top elbow of spindle, which makes it prone to breaking)
the 7-8º degree spindle provides LESS wheel weight jacking effect when the wheels are turned than the stock 10º spindle. it also improves negative camber gain when wheels are turned in either direction. Also improves bump steer because of the arch in which the steering rod would be taking in the turning sweep.
I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.
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Great explanation! Thanks for taking the time to respond!
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