Chain rr?

[RSS]

Thoughts on chaining rr? Procedure?

[TheJet-09]

I chain mine. I first did it just to help when changing the RR spring or adjusting the right side bars by letting it "support" the rearend for me while hanging. But I've since started actually adjusting it to limit lift on the RR (after watching a video of a RR suspension and seeing how far the RR can lift off the spring under acceleration).

I see some cars with a cable. I suppose you could adjust the free height (or whatever you'd call the gap at full droop) by moving the attaching point on the rearend in and out. I just welded a chain to threaded rod which I run "through" the chassis so I can adjust the gap that way. I have 3/4" of gap between the top of the RR spring and adjuster nut with both rear wheels hanging. It's an arbitrary number (meaning just a starting point I haven't played with much) so who knows what's best.

[RSS]

I chain mine. I first did it just to help when changing the RR spring or adjusting the right side bars by letting it "support" the rearend for me while hanging. But I've since started actually adjusting it to limit lift on the RR (after watching a video of a RR suspension and seeing how far the RR can lift off the spring under acceleration).I see some cars with a cable. I suppose you could adjust the free height (or whatever you'd call the gap at full droop) by moving the attaching point on the rearend in and out. I just welded a chain to threaded rod which I run "through" the chassis so I can adjust the gap that way. I have 3/4" of gap between the top of the RR spring and adjuster nut with both rear wheels hanging. It's an arbitrary number (meaning just a starting point I haven't played with much) so who knows what's best.

Any idea what your bar angles are at this 3/4"?

[TheJet-09]

On jack stands with the chassis rake relatively the same as at ride height, and both rear wheels hanging, the RRU link is 28.9* and the RRL is 8.0*. That is with both links in the neutral, or starting, position. Things to consider would be the length of your links (mine are 17.5" and 15.5") and how much the RR spring is loaded at ride height (meaning it's rate and how much weight it is carrying). These would all affect the "change" in link angle from ride height to full droop (RR lift).

[fox1162002]

I chain mine and if you have the shock and spring package to go with it, it is real fast in the slick. I was told it helps keep rr drive in the car. Mine is set to where the shock nut is touching the spring when rear is hanging. It will tighten the car up on entry but that's where the shock an spring package comes to play.

[sidewinder69]

Would you go softer or stiffer on rr spring?

[collateralDamage]

i would recommend before anyone try to chain the rr down to go-pro the rr and see how much lift you actually get off of the spring.

in my experience, the chain doesn't really do anything for me unless the spring is at zero gap or in compression. i would consider 1/4" gap a starting point and tighten it from there.

[sidewinder69]

1/4 gap while its hangin in stands with show on car and measuring nut to spring ?

[collateralDamage]

1/4 gap while its hangin in stands with show on car and measuring nut to spring ?

car on jackstands with lr full droop on its limiter.

[Dirt_Buster]

We chain our car because the rr comes unloaded without it. We also run 11-12@ j bar rake. Once we passed 7-8" it would start lifting the rr off the spring. Chain at ride height and run the j bar vertical if on a smooth slick track. Cushion or rough track you're flacked

[Stede Bonnet]

This is all very helpful information. Anybody try it in conjunction with LF cable/chain?
Like RR/LF both limited...
Does having the RR chained, say at ride height, improve side-bite?

[JustAddDirt]

This is all very helpful information. Anybody try it in conjunction with LF cable/chain?
Like RR/LF both limited...
Does having the RR chained, say at ride height, improve side-bite?

yes I do on a modified