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Thread: entry push

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    6

    Default entry push

    New to mod this year, been fighting a push on corner entry all season, everything we try to free it up doesn't work, just wants to go straight on entry. Suspecting that the rear master cylinder isn't working right. Saturday the front hubs were hot, the rears were warm. Is there any way to check it?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    231

    Default

    IMO I wouldn't get to distracted by the brakes. I suppose it depends on many things but if the car is setup properly it should be wanting to turn entering the corner without a lot of brakes. Are you running the RF shut off? assume the car has been setup properly close to the mfg. guidelines?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    104

    Default

    If you get on throttle before you have car turned in it will push, even with a car that is setup correctly. It does sound like brake bias needs to be adjusted to rear-will loosen up rear some.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    212

    Default

    Check the rear end alignment. I had this issue a while back and my housing was bent. I tried everything to free it up on entry and it was actually an alignment issue from a damaged part. Sometimes little things like that can get missed.

  5. #5

    Default

    Drove a car like this once bias adjuster for front to rear was messed up even all the way adjusted to rear it still had too much front brake which will make any car tight

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    tulsa america
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    If its a old car the ball inside the brake pedal maybe jammed up. Or Like Broc stated it maybe out of adjustment. What size m/c front and rear and what size pistons on the calipers, have you verified they are all the same? RF shutoff available? More questions than answers right now. But like the other guy said the car should turn in reasonably well w/o the brakes, if you are donkey kicking the brakes to turn it you are losing speed. Probably should confirm that the pistons in the front aren't jammed up and that's why they are so hot.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Thanks, I think I found the problem, I hope, the threaded rod for the adjuster on the balance was bent, and doesn't look like it was adjusting to the rear

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    3,224

    Default

    brake bias is easy to check. when you pull on the track or even in the pits with 100 percent rear you should easily be able to kill your motor by slam the brakes and the car should tail out not skid the fronts unless your on slime etc.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    104

    Default

    Get some gauges and check brake bias. Then since you're new to this you better get familiar with using both pedals to keep the car loaded all the time.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Well I replaced the rear master cylinder, fixed the bent bias adjuster rod. And no more push on entry, now I just got to figure out how to get it to hook up and not spin the tires on exit.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    270

    Default

    Is the car at all loose on entry? If it's not, put more LR bite in it, that will free entry a little and give you more drive from center off. More info on your complete setup would really help. JMO

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