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  1. #1

    Default New to Modifieds

    I have raced hobby stocks for several years and now getting the opportunity to drive a DW8 B-mod. The car handles pretty decent I finished 8th out 24 cars in my first race. My question is how do you make these car lift the LR? I am running LF 600 5-3 RF 700 3-5 LR 250 8-2 RR 200 4. Sliders both side LR in front RR behind the axle J-bar level and solid pull bar bottom hole on chassis. 53% left side 48.5% cross 40# bite.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Santa Land
    Posts
    554

    Default

    What rear suspension setup?
    My sarcasm is a pre-emptive strike to your stupidity!!

  3. #3

    Default

    2 link with a J-bar sliders on both sides. USRA B-MOD

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    363

    Default

    The stiff lr spring will slow down chassis hike because rate comes off lr quicker...if u needed to speed up hike you could soften the lr spring...also softer rf would make it hike ...700 is fairly stiff if on a chevelle clip...there's a million other ways but these were just two that stood out from your info

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    in a van down by the river
    Posts
    1,892

    Default

    put a 175 16" lr spring on it. and preload it to the same amount of bite.
    the stiff RF may want to lift the left front wheel, but it should have good traction.
    I run the MastersBilt house car modified for 2 years, the only way I could get any traction was a 700 RF 650 LF
    car was really good like that.
    I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    363

    Default

    Another option that may work well with the stiff rf is starting it at a lower ride height...just lower it enough to get it to the desired travel that you want

  7. #7

    Default

    Does the J bar have anything to do with the LR lifting? My J bar was angled down toward the chassis.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    363

    Default

    Depending on how much drop the jbar had built into it Thatd be pretty bad...usually 5 inch of rake between the two mounting points is a good average starting spot...check to see how much difference there is...if it's only an inch or two that could for sure make it not lift

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    28

    Default

    You need to get your cross weight closer to 50-51%. Soften the rf, I run a 550 on the lf and 500 on the rf. I would drop the lr spring down to a 175 as well. What bar angles do you have on the rear?

  10. #10

    Default

    I also need to add, I am racing on a high banked 1/2 mile track, high momentum. LR bar at 15 degrees RR bar level.

  11. #11

    Default

    Update - So I took some of your advice. This week I ran LF 550 RF 600 LR 175 16" RR 175 13" with 15 degrees in the LR bar and RR flat. I finished 3rd out of 24 cars and close enough to the leader to make things interesting. The car was hiked up and going forward, started 13th.
    Thanks for all the help

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    in a van down by the river
    Posts
    1,892

    Default

    glad you saw an improvement. thanks for the update.
    also sound like it drove well through traffic.
    I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.

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