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  1. #1

    Default Stacking theory vs bump

    i see now people is stacking all over the place either no lock out on lr, or with on rf... is there a general idea trying to follow suit with this theory vs the standard conventionals of the past.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,014

    Default

    The reason on the LR is different than on the RF. LR is simply to get a low spring rate that does not bow too much. Works the same as a barrel spring, or a conventional if you keep it from bowing into the shock itself.

  3. #3

    Default

    whats the reason to have a super soft combined spring that you have to preload so much to get your bite vs just running a 175 or something?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,014

    Default

    Some guys get down to low 100's like 125, 110 even. The reasons vary but if you have a 110 then it will have a ton of preload. So when you hike up your always on a spring, so when you let out of the gas you don't drop 1" in free fall and then hit a spring. Also if your unloading say 300 lbs of Load off the springs, a 300 lb spring will extend 1" and a 100 lb spring will extend 3". This ensures you will always get up on the bars.

    If it is faster or works better is something that is not clear, different drivers and cars like it different guys like a 175 or 200. Many races won with both stacked Lr and static 175-200.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,123

    Default

    Low 100s? Keep going. But as with everything, there is more to this setup then just throwing this on the LR.
    And yes....invest in a good spanner wrench.

  6. #6

    Default

    One thing to keep in mind on the different springs. There are different designs on birdcages and shock mounts and so on. My experience, older designs in birdcages don't favor soft spring/ heavy preload type stuff. With a lot of the newer setups there are newer and different designs in the bolt on items that go with it. I think this is info not given or taken into account a lot of times.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,014

    Default

    Matt49, have you found needle bearings that will not clog up or rust after one show? Every time I put them on the make the adjusting a little easier... have to pull them apart every race and clean rust out of them, anybody make a good stainless or found one that will last?

  8. #8

    Default

    care to elaborate matt49?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    245

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sidewinder69 View Post
    care to elaborate matt49?
    Just go to fastenal and get some big washers that fit between the spring and the adjuster. I use 2, the. A little anti seize in between em. Works great. No bearings.Would be same as the washers that come with the bearing kit just remove the bearing in the middle.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,940

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zeroracing View Post
    Matt49, have you found needle bearings that will not clog up or rust after one show? Every time I put them on the make the adjusting a little easier... have to pull them apart every race and clean rust out of them, anybody make a good stainless or found one that will last?
    How about taking one of the steel washers and chuck in a lathe and cut a small groove in it and installing a o-ring to seal between the washers to keep the dirt out. Might have to make new washers for thickness or to have a large enough OD to get outside the bearing.

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