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Thread: RR on ice exit?

  1. #1

    Default RR on ice exit?

    How is it possible if you shortened rr rods, dropped j bar on pinion, drop lr and rr bottom rods, took out stagger, took out rf rebound, took out dummy shock compression ,lowered right side air..... Still get in and steer but absolutely no scotch and forward on exit.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    thedirtysouth
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    4,014

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    are you sure you haven't made the car so tight that your having to break it loose to make it turn? happens a lot, a simple piece of tape on steering wheel can tell a lot......

  3. #3

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    I thought about it but no I can get im good and the car rotates well

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    Barbados
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    325

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    Perhaps a bind. Why take rebound out of RF, that'll lose drive? No scotch tells me there is a bind or bad shock w/bent shaft perhaps.

  5. #5

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    I always though if you take rebound out rf it allow to transfer back to lr for better drive ?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    3,123

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    Quote Originally Posted by sidewinder69 View Post
    I always though if you take rebound out rf it allow to transfer back to lr for better drive ?
    That is exactly what it does. Taking RF rebound out is a common and quite effective adjustment to help promote drive when the track get slick.

    Do you have a lot of lead ballast in your car? If so, how high do you have it all mounted?

  7. #7

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    I got all the lead right under deck high as possible. One piece above lr and 3 pieces roughly 60 lbs on 5th coil bar towards rear.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    It should transfer weight pretty good then. It's possible that you have too much static left side or not enough rear. Also possible something is binding, bad shock, etc.

  9. #9

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    52.4 rear percentage

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    3,123

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    Quote Originally Posted by sidewinder69 View Post
    52.4 rear percentage
    That's pretty low in my opinion.

    Regardless of chassis make, I've always felt that 53.5 left and 53.5 rear was a good starting point. For slicker conditions, 54-54.5 rear is even better but you have to be sure the car will turn in the center without having to slide it.

  11. #11

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    i run blue xs battery which i think around 45 lbs was in center of the car, just moved it to above left rear. havent gotten on scales yet but should help a ton. did not know that a percent or 2 would make that much of a difference

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by sidewinder69 View Post
    i run blue xs battery which i think around 45 lbs was in center of the car, just moved it to above left rear. havent gotten on scales yet but should help a ton. did not know that a percent or 2 would make that much of a difference
    0.5% makes a noticeable difference to me. There IS a reason that guys like Bloomquist work so hard on fuel cell designs that limit the mount of tail weight lost via fuel burn-off.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    399

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    Your not making and maintaining rr traction. Pretty generic answer, have you tried lowering the rr upper bar a lot @ frame? There are so many questions to be answered about your car, track and tires. Not knowing the car, setup, tires, and tires. it would seem to me you have got the car way too tight overall. What RR tire? 29.0 or 11.0
    Last edited by CCHIEF; 11-01-2016 at 09:14 PM.

  14. #14

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    ItIt's an open 1350. What does lowering rr top rod do ?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    2,930

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    Takes drive out of the RR, its a good adjustment.

    Just say no...

  16. #16

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    but does it take out scotch of the rr? like where you feel like your somewhat against a cushion so it catches car somewhat so you can start going forward

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    If you ever have a car that feels like that, it is way too tight. This will then cause you to turn the wheel left to complete the corner and you will lose all forward bite from there. This is the classic "too tight in, too loose off" condition that most racers tune themselves into and then continue to tighten that car because they are loose off...making the problem worse and worse.
    I'd be willing to bet if you put all of your bars back where they were and get your rear percentage up to something more reasonable, you won't be too far off.

  18. #18

    Default

    thats actually what i am doing . im trying to be careful in diagnosing it correctly , i guess timing would be the more importance of what im trying to deal with because it feels good in the traction and when it slicks its good getting in... its just that point once your leaving center and you need that scotch or forward whatever you want to call it. i wondered if i needed more caster to help load because i have 1.5 and 4.5 as of right now

  19. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sidebite? thats what i would referr to that as.

    Next year i am going to weld in a new RR mount, and run a stiffer spring, and add about 10 ish degrees of angle to the inside. That and try a 2 stage spring, and maybe a softish bumbstop.

    I think he is looking for the car to firm up in the center, this scotch thing, sidebite whatever. I agree if you feel that going in your dead. Free in, and the firm up on the RR in the middle and go with the pedal. Maybe thats all wrong but we have been looking for the same feel.

    Just say no...

  20. #20

    Default

    thats exactly right . looking for some sidebite i guess once i get to center to enhance the exit. i do know my rr shock is leaned in much further than my lr behind

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