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Thread: Lead on LR tube

  1. #101
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    Drop Shock. Do you know what they are saying the weight should be or is there a minimum/maximum rule?

    Just curious

  2. #102
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    The way I understand it they are going to be talking with each chassis manufacturer and the rearend can't be a certain amount more than how they're sold from the manufacturer. Sounds a little weird since some of the builders (Bloomquist and Richards) are thought to have started this trend

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drop Shock View Post
    The way I understand it they are going to be talking with each chassis manufacturer and the rearend can't be a certain amount more than how they're sold from the manufacturer. Sounds a little weird since some of the builders (Bloomquist and Richards) are thought to have started this trend
    So, Bloomer can say what his is allowed to weigh? Lol
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -1

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drop Shock View Post
    The way I understand it they are going to be talking with each chassis manufacturer and the rearend can't be a certain amount more than how they're sold from the manufacturer. Sounds a little weird since some of the builders (Bloomquist and Richards) are thought to have started this trend
    This was the original plan but has changed thus the hold up on rules, They were indeed going to weight the whole hanging weight of the rear end via something along the lines of something similar to a hanging fishing scale from the chassis to the rear end on both sides. The number that was talked about was 280# (have to assume they were talking with wheels and tires also). However the problem I see with this is this (#1) and they should have done it this way IMO (#2)

    #1 There no left to right weight just a total, that means you could run the lightest most exotic rear end to get the total weight down and then pile it on the left side. Or make the right side, center section, ring gear, and spool as light as possible to move that weight to the left side and still be at the minimal total weight. This may stop some of it, but not fully to those that can afford to spend a ton of extra money to use really light stuff and replace it all the time because it may not hold up for long.

    #2 My idea is to simply jack car up unhook rear shocks and set the tires down on 2 scale pads and weigh the whole hanging weight of the rear end. Then settle on some total number for the rear end or a number for each side. You could go like 280# but with only half or 60% on the left side. Just have to pick a number and go with it, as it shouldn't be that hard to get a average and that way everyone knows where they stand. This way is simple and don't take long to check and is likely the fairest way you going to find and the easiest to tech with the least amount of time.

    I don't think the rules are in print yet, so I won't post them but you will laugh when you see them. Least this 4th or 5th version is somewhat simpler then the other versions you have to wonder about them anyways. What’s crazy is you won’t be allowed to bolt weight on the rear end (cheap and still not legal with a manufactured clamp like Kyser’s) but you can spend whatever they want for a really heavy cage and be legal, lol.

  5. #105
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    Easier way, ultra sonic tester call a max tube thickness, and a spring loaded punch.

  6. #106
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    The problem with measuring the thickness is it doesnt address the issue of someone using an insert inside the tube (tungsten/ lead). Unfortunately the only way I see to tech this is to weigh the rear end assembly.

  7. #107
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    Who is gonna tech this tuff? Serously?

    Have to go to a race at 9am just to get in tech line to make hot laps at 6pm.

    Its gonna be NASCAR all over again.

    Time to sell...

    Just say no...

  8. #108

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    The best idea is to leave it alone and quit trying to have a rule for every (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) thing. Diversity breeds competition.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by MBR Performance View Post
    The best idea is to leave it alone and quit trying to have a rule for every (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) thing. Diversity breeds competition.
    And we have a winner...

  10. #110
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    im with you guys, leave it alone, only rule should be for safety, meaning how the weight is attached , or any thing that appears to be a safety hazard. if there is no danger ,then who cares how much the left rear weighs.

  11. #111
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    Do you plan on floating that lead insert on some kind of superconductors? Then you would be able to hide it from a sonic tester. Look this goes beyond innovation you cannot just let it all go, we tried that once in case many of you forgot or haven't been alive that long.

  12. #112
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    Too many rules now. This took a cheap bolt on weight and turned it into a expensive tube and bird cage that can't be checked easy. Make the bolts strong enough and no one has an advantage. If it is not enforceable, it is a bad rule.

  13. #113
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    seems to me if i wanted to use a steel left rear tube , an all steel left rear bird cage made from 1/2 in plate and an old steel wide 5 hub on left rear, whats wrong with that? i think it would achieve the same results. When you ( rule makers) start telling us how much each side of the rear has to weigh, then i say nascar is here........

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastford View Post
    seems to me if i wanted to use a steel left rear tube , an all steel left rear bird cage made from 1/2 in plate and an old steel wide 5 hub on left rear, whats wrong with that? i think it would achieve the same results. When you ( rule makers) start telling us how much each side of the rear has to weigh, then i say nascar is here........
    That would be great but guys take it to the extreme and everyone in the monkey see monkey do goes out and buys the unobtanium as well instead of bolting on lead. Have to do something to keep cost in check. I feel like they missed the boat on wide bore motors so they are trying to do something the past couple seasons, right wrong or indifferent.

  15. #115
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    If your fine with adding rotating weight just put 5 gallons of water in your lr tire... youll get massive amounts of tire distortion and traction and it wont leave the lr.

    My rock crawler has 200lbs in each front tire.. Its only noticeable from a dead stop, the 3800 converter gets up there a lot higher than it did when there was no fluid in my front tires.


  16. #116
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    What do you put in the front tires to gain 200 lbs.? It sure isn't water.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerslide View Post
    That would be great but guys take it to the extreme and everyone in the monkey see monkey do goes out and buys the unobtanium as well instead of bolting on lead. Have to do something to keep cost in check. I feel like they missed the boat on wide bore motors so they are trying to do something the past couple seasons, right wrong or indifferent.
    That is only a problem if the unobtainium gives you an advantage.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
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  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by over4T View Post
    What do you put in the front tires to gain 200 lbs.? It sure isn't water.
    Water and anti freeze. 50/50.

  19. #119
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    i saw a guy try the water thing one time in an old EC3 tire, the whole rear end would hop off the ground when he tried to get up to speed , funniest thing i ever saw a race car do. i guess the distortion got it all out of balance or something. By the way, thats is a nice looking machine there SCD.

  20. #120
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    I have no issues at 65 or up and down speed. I never tried it in my race car tire.

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