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Get your bar angles so that RR upper is around 20 degrees. RR lower 0 to plus 3. LR upper 25 range and LR lower 7ish. I ran drop where axle to underside of frame rail was 13.5"
If you have 33"/35" rear, inside of torque arm plate to center of RR frame rail is 16".
Last edited by MasterSbilt_Racer; 04-06-2017 at 10:14 AM.
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What should side to side be measuring from the 5th arm bracket to the center of the RR frame rail?
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How much bite to start with?
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I would leave your springs and scale numbers where they are for now.
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Thanks. I'll keep you posted
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And if it has S-7 spindles by chance, the front ride heights are then 3 1/2" on both sides. I have/had an '07 Mars Smackdown and learned that taking LR weight out (bite) had a much better effect on side bite (and overall traction off) than moving the J-Bar/adding angle. Don't be afraid to get down to 50-80# of bite. They also have a lot of RR trail built into the mounts (RR is about 3/4" farther back than the LR at ride height). So don't be afraid to move the LR way back (I ran LR links that were 1/2" longer than what it calls for. I heard Babb ran the LR 1" further back when he was in a MasterSbilt). By comparison, look at where the LR wheel is in relation to the wheel opening on some of these Rockets and Club 29 cars when they go out for the feature. You'd think something was broken on the rear suspension!
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We never ran that heavy of fifth coil either, usually 275/300.
Turn LEFT, Vote RIGHT!
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 Originally Posted by a25rjr
We never ran that heavy of fifth coil either, usually 275/300.
I never ran that light.
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A 2010 Smackdown can come off the corner. Watch the 33 win the race.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24f2RtJ3ppc
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Found two problems. 1) bent RF spring,2) RF shock didn't have and has in it . Also the jbar being to high on the chassis
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Originally Posted by Hoyt3383
Found two problems. 1) bent RF spring,2) RF shock didn't have and has in it . Also the jbar being to high on the chassis
Personally, I think the j-bar height was okay.. but I always ran D55 tires in my Masters.
300lb 5th coil with 1/4 - 3/8" preload is what I ran.
If it has S7 front suspension, I'd still cheat the RF ride height up a little bit... I was upwards of 4 1/4" RF ride height with a 400/700 stack. Was the only way I could get enough travel without digging the cross member or front strut bolt into the ground.
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Running Hoosier 1350's. has regular smackdown spindles on it 660hp, integra ida's, steel block brodix heads.
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Originally Posted by MachineMasters
Personally, I think the j-bar height was okay.. but I always ran D55 tires in my Masters.
300lb 5th coil with 1/4 - 3/8" preload is what I ran.
If it has S7 front suspension, I'd still cheat the RF ride height up a little bit... I was upwards of 4 1/4" RF ride height with a 400/700 stack. Was the only way I could get enough travel without digging the cross member or front strut bolt into the ground.
We typically ran the shorter bar. But, it is easy to replace the rear suspension with the j bar on those cars.
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Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
That's what we had. Remember, Im in the south with all that sand!
Turn LEFT, Vote RIGHT!
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Car looked good in the video buddy.
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Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
Having a good wheelman never hurts the cause either.
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Originally Posted by Renegade Cust Susp
Having a good wheelman never hurts the cause either.
Certainly not. Lol. Especially when you are missing quite a bit of other stuff that you have to have $$ for.
Last edited by MasterSbilt_Racer; 04-07-2017 at 06:07 AM.
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Definitely WAY too much j-bar angle. Go with what MasterSbilt_Racer suggested. My guess is that you are way too tight getting in and having to pitch the car in the center. Which is causing you to have no remaining traction to get off the corner. The excessive j-bar angle is the reason the car is falling on the RR and thus toting the LF.
Front ride heights for a standard smack car depend on which style spindles you're running. The numbers MachineMasters provided are for the original smack spindles. Almost anybody that ever ran a smack car past 2010 eventually ended up on the S-7 front end. The car will turn much better. That being said, I'm not sure the exact differences in the MB by Mars. To Machine Masters point, that's a real crock that they won't provide even the most basic starting points for you. I can understand not doing R&D on older stuff but they should at least have some setup sheets laying around.
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No information what so ever. I've talked to them 3 times and said they would see if they had anything they could email me, and NOTHING!. I was able to get ahold of the original owner of the car who won a ton of races in it and he still has all the notes and information on the car. He is supposed to be calling me back tonight
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