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Thread: Bump springs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    234

    Default Bump springs

    Thoughts on them and do u think they are better for ur shocks than standard bump stops? Go.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    234

    Default

    Come on no one uses these or knows about them. I think tbey will be better for our shocks than slammin them against hard ass stops all the time

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Once those coil bind, they gotta be mean. And before that, they are a spring. I don't get them, honestly.

  4. #4
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    Nov 2014
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    488

    Default

    Pretty sure he was just bumping the post back to the top.. since no one had replied..

  5. #5
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    Apr 2015
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    Really arguing with myself if u didnt understand that maybe u shouldnt be lookin

  6. #6
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    Nov 2012
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    Post number two could have used a question mark after the first sentence... that would have changed everything.
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
    Class of 2019

  7. #7

    Default

    I like the linear properties of a bump spring. I like the durability of an elastomer. You can make an elastomer linear within an adequate range of travel with some creativity.

  8. #8

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    A bump spring will out last a bump stop any day

  9. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MBR Performance View Post
    A bump spring will out last a bump stop any day
    Is durability really an issue? How do bump springs survive coil bind?
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -1

  10. #10
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    Aug 2016
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    Default

    Thoughts on the RE suspension "bump washer"?

  11. #11
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    Dec 2008
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    thedirtysouth
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LOSTRACER2 View Post
    Thoughts on the RE suspension "bump washer"?
    i use it on top of there cone bump stop, helps to keep from distorting the top. ive had good luck with anything ive got from these guy,s and there tech help is good also....

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    1,336

    Default

    Are you talking seperator washer or Bellvelle stack?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    164

    Default

    I posted on here a year or so ago about springs instead of rubber bumpstops and the response I got from these pro's on here was that I was crazy. I was in a shop and saw the spring on the shock shaft and inside the spring cup. It was about the size of a valve spring. This spring may not have had anything to do with it but the guy killing the competition every weekend so he was doing something right.

  14. #14
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    May 2007
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    If you want to have a second stage with a 1500#, you can do that with coilovers. Then if you want a stop, rubber is better. What color underoos did that fast guy have?
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -1

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    332

    Default

    I looked at a Lucas oil car last spring and it had bump springs on it. Went back today and it had pucks stacked and no bump springs. I also saw some screwed up stuff all over that thing. Interesting to say the least.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    I ran bump springs before I ran bump stops and my experience was this: Running bump springs you get an instant jump to a higher cross setup when it contacts the bump spring in the first corner. They are also a little harder to control with the shock rebound than a bump stop in my experience. I ended up rebuilding my shock on the RF about half a dozen times before I was happy with corner exit. It would tighten up in the middle, but I would lose drive on exit super early as it would lift off the bump to soon. At least I think I didn't have strong enough rebound control and it kept lifting off the bump spring too early. I ended up needed a really really heavy valve stack inside the shock to keep the corner down on the bump spring long enough to gain drive on exit. Once I had it figured out it was great. The nice thing is they come in so many different rates and usually leave you decent amount of room for going over ruts and bumps on the track before you bind. Biggest things are having a ball park idea of how much loading your cornering forces create so that you can select the right combination of ride spring and bump spring rate, how much clearance you have when you get on the bump spring (they're usually 2"-2.5" so usually have decent clearance), and rebound speed to keep the corner on the bump spring when you exit the corner lol. Running bump stops I really really liked when the track was smooth, I never ran them on a rough track but if the track is smooth they are waaaaay better than bump springs IMO. The reason I like them is that they tend to give you a more progressive feel, the harder the car gets on the bump the tighter it gets which is something I really liked in the middle, it felt like I could drive the car a harder in without it busting loose or sliding. It was really nice when changing my line to the inside when the cushion got used up, I was able to move down and run the low line and not worry about the back end sliding out at the apex. At this point I had already found a shock valve stack that worked for the bump spring and used it on the bump stop. So here's my two cents on bump springs and bump stops. Bump springs I feel are better on hooked up fast tracks and I think work better running the car down on the bump for the entire race. Once it engages running a shock that is strong enough to keep it down on the bump helps load the RF tire contact patch sooner coming in. Usually need to run a much stiffer RR spring to keep the car neutral in the middle. Biggest benefit in my eyes is the aero platform, lower front, limited camber change, and increased LR loading when utilized properly. Bump stops are better on a dry smooth surface, when it helps to have the car become tighter as you get deeper into the corner or drive the car harder in. They don't need quite as much rebound control because they are progressive, usually helps to have a slightly stiffer ride spring in my experience. I guess it does depend on the type of bump you run. Some load like crazy and some are relatively soft. I think for dirt it's best to run softer bumps with somewhat stiffer ride springs to avoid spiking the load on the tires unless the track is like really really fast and really smooth, then I'd run super soft ride spring with a small stiff bump and lots of gap. That's just me though and I'm sure there are varying opinions on this.

  17. #17
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    very good analysis Mr Kennedy, ive never ran a bump spring, but in the conditions you described using one, i use the 2 stage set up. I was concerned about the little spring coil binding. I was wandering about stacking to real stiff ones together to get the rate i want, but dont think theres room without going with a longer shock, have you tried this?

  18. #18
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    Aug 2016
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    212

    Default

    I haven't no. What rate are you looking for?

  19. #19
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    im on 500 when i hit the lock out on 2 stage, thats what i was thinking about two 1000s because i think a single 500 spring might coil bind. I will say the only reason i was thinking about this is to reduce the weight of the 2 stage which i only run on a heavy and or rough track,

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    The only issue with that is your bump spring setup doesn't lock out the ride spring. So if you had for example a 300 ride spring and a 850 bump spring, your final rate would be 1150. If you wanted 500 for a final number, you'd have to run a really soft ride spring, like a 225 ride spring and then two 550 bump springs (for a final rate of 275 for bump springs). Which to me is kinda crazy. You would need enough room in the 225 spring to take up enough rate to avoid binding the 2 550 springs that have a combined 2.2" travel taking up 4.5"+ caps and a coupler, so let's just say 5". I'm not sure how much travel your RF has, but to make sense of that application let's just for instance say, you had 2400 lbs of force in a corner, with 7" of shock travel, and pre-load of let's say 500#.. your ride spring would take up 2" of travel before it got on the bump springs, so 550# plus 500# of force, that's 1050#. There is a remaining 1350# of force that needs to be taken up by the combined rate of the bump springs and ride springs, which would require an additional 2.5" of travel, and leave you with nothing before bind. It could be made to work eventually but is it really that much lighter to run a taller shock with a taller spring with different mounting points now to increase available shock travel to accommodate these tall bump springs? It would be a lot of work and then here is the next step... is that 2" before the bump springs going to be enough room for you to achieve the transition of handling at the right part in the turn? I mean you could play with your compression speed I guess.
    Last edited by Mr.Kennedy777; 04-17-2017 at 09:42 PM.

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