Stacking right rear

[Aggressor]

What are some good spring rates to stack for are combo? 100/300?

[Basecircle]

Kind of wondering the same. Any links to good solid general info on the effects of different stacks in different positions on the car? I find plenty of "this is what I run" info, but I want to read and understand better before I waste time experimenting too much. I get how an individual stacked spring set works, just not as much about pro and con of using it in different corners. (RF I get pretty well, but both rears I'm not so sure)

[Matt49]

Some of the confusion in all of this comes with terminology. A stack is just that, a stack. But in this instance, I assume we're talking about a dual-stage setup. So for a 100/300 combo, you're going to be on a 75 pound rate until it locks out and then on a 300. So this should make your car VERY free on initial entry and then when it locks out (somewhere past entry close to mid-corner) it should get tighter. But then when you get back in the gas, it will be relatively free until it gets back off the 300...which it may not due for a long ways down the straight depending on how your shock is valved in rebound.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

What are some good spring rates to stack for are combo? 100/300?

500/500 ought to do it. No lockout nut.

[Aggressor]

Matt49...... in the instance of a LR dual stage if I were to screw down on the lockout nut what's the results?

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

Matt49...... in the instance of a LR dual stage if I were to screw down on the lockout nut what's the results?

The wheel rate stiffens sooner in compression. If it were already touching at ride height, you raised the ride height.

[swingarm4life]

digressive!

[25jrjr]

500/500 ought to do it. No lockout nut.

2-16 inch or 20?

[King1]

I know of a rr stack thats working right now and its more f'ed up than anything ive read so far.

[Matt49]

Matt49...... in the instance of a LR dual stage if I were to screw down on the lockout nut what's the results?

I can only speak from my personal experience on LR dual stage. On my setup, I run the lock nut to touch at ride height because I want the effects of the super soft LR in all "racing" conditions. The only reason I have the lock nut at all is so that if I have to check up in a big hurry the car won't go so drastically into negative rear steer.

[hipower17]

anyone have photos of this setup?

[Basecircle]

Just trying to understand some theory of why it works. Is my understanding correct that you'd run a stacked/lockout on the RR to more closely match the RR to the RF to keep both working equally (assuming that there is also a lockout or a soft spring and bumpstop in RF)? And then when the RR locks to a stiffer rate, it would help under acceleration when it needs to match the LR closer (which at that point is off the spring and on the bars). Am I understanding correctly or is there more/less to it than that?

[CCHIEF]

The days of being off the LR spring are long gone for my setup.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

Just trying to understand some theory of why it works. Is my understanding correct that you'd run a stacked/lockout on the RR to more closely match the RR to the RF to keep both working equally (assuming that there is also a lockout or a soft spring and bumpstop in RF)? And then when the RR locks to a stiffer rate, it would help under acceleration when it needs to match the LR closer (which at that point is off the spring and on the bars). Am I understanding correctly or is there more/less to it than that?

Its not really about matching, per se. You have lateral weight transfer and longitudinal transfer. Looking at lateral, the car is tighter under acceleration when the RR has less weight, in general. The car is tighter off the gas when the RR has more. You need to optimize the car on as many points on the track as you can. RR wheel loading is progressive due to birdcage rotation. RF is progressive due to the spring and bump combos employed.