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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    404

    Default Crazy tight on Entry, middle and exit (on throttle)

    car is a 2012 bwrc and it is crazy tight on entry, heavy track, slick track it doesnt matter, car will not turn unless im at all rear break stabbing them hard and backing the car into the corner (crate)
    info
    springs 450 lf, 275 w/600lb bump spring rf, 225 lr, 250 rr 5th arm is a stack 400/400 w/lock out that comes in at 2"
    scale # 645 lf, 511 rf, 667 lr, 614 rr... 48.2 cross, 54.0 lft, 52.5 rear
    4 link rods, left upper down 1 from neutral, lrb up on from neutral, both right sides up one from neutral
    6.5" of stagger in rear, 2.5" in front
    running a 2" spacer on rr
    most lead in the center of car about 5th arm. with exception of 25lbs on drivers door to get percent up

    what am i doing wrong here... if you need more info please let me know ill tell you all you need if you can get me pointed back in the right direction

  2. #2

    Default

    Did you unhook 4 bars and rotate cages, double check no rough spots or binds..

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    404

    Default

    Every other week

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    399

    Default

    ........Try driving around the other direction!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    399

    Default

    Seriously, get rid of the 275 and bump spring, put what they call for in their baseline. Set LR drop to recommendation and maintain it. Move RR tire back 2 turns on 4 bars at a time. Have you tried taking angle out of PH bar, raise at pinion? Basically.....Put on manufacturers baseline.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    The land of Irma
    Posts
    3,774

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CCHIEF View Post
    Seriously, get rid of the 275 and bump spring, put what they call for in their baseline. Set LR drop to recommendation and maintain it. Move RR tire back 2 turns on 4 bars at a time. Have you tried taking angle out of PH bar, raise at pinion? Basically.....Put on manufacturers baseline.
    What he said^^^^^ esp the j-bar part. Also, soften the rr to 225.
    Turn LEFT, Vote RIGHT!

  7. #7

    Default

    Sounds like you've been changing a bunch of things to try to free it up with no success. If the car is not responding to chassis changes, there's likely a problem you haven't found. Like stated above, get back on base setup and diagnose from there. What is the car doing on entry? Does it roll over on the right side, or 4 wheel slide? Sounds like the car never sets on entry and that kills the whole corner.

  8. #8

    Default

    You need to return to Barry's baseline. I recommend either a 350 rf and a tall 3" bump ( heavy ) or a 400/700 rf with same bump. 500 lf 200 lr 225 rr. If you are following Barry's wheelbase /axle setup , Trail the rr 1 turn and advance the lr 1 turn on the bars. Also move RF lower ball joint forward of LF 1/8". J bar for crate should be 8" at frame and pinion. Bite 60-80 lbs. 1" frt. 5" fear stagger. 4 3/4" drop on left rear. Both rear tops -4 , lt. bottom @ 3 degree ( 3rd.hole down.) RR bottom @ 0 degree ( centre hole ) Set bottom bar degrees to establish ride heights , driver weight in car. Use J bar at pinion to tighten. I have 2011 setup sheets if needed. These cars must have lots of rear steer, do not shear or back-in except on mud.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    851

    Default

    put it on standard. itll get you in the ballpark. And best i remember they call for a 400 or 450 rf on base. Also, email lance hes very helpful
    supertech@barrywright.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    in a van down by the river
    Posts
    1,892

    Default

    take the 2" spacer out of the RR.
    moving RR out always feels like it tightens me up.
    Just a thought.
    I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.

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