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4 Link Conversion - LR
Hi guys/gals, new poster here... I'm somewhat new to mods, currently running a 3 link impala/caprice clip car.Older, square tube chassis. I'm looking to do a few upgrades this winter and was wondering if it is worth converting the LR to a 4 link? From what I've read so far, there are a few people that run a 4-2 setup with both springs behind, RR clamped up. Anyone here with that setup? Any input is appreciated!
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I ran one like that. It was ok if there was a cushion. It was a little weird on exit. I moved the rr spring to the top of the axle, then the car was good. It also made it very forgiving. I lock my rr birdcage and remove the top link a lot on my current setup, whenever the track is rough or hammer down.
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I converted a '96 Dirtworks over to a 4 bar on the left rear. I used the same lower frame mount and added the upper frame brackets. I am not saying this is the best way to do it, because my lower trailing arm was longer than the upper. This is opposite from what most people are running. As far as running the RR spring behind the axle, I ran mine behind till I spoke with Rex Merrit from AFCO. He had a car like this and he felt it freed the car up when he picked up the throttle with the spring behind. He suggested running the RR spring in front of the axle. He was right. I noticed that it hooked quicker when the spring was moved to the front of the axle.
Our Creed: "Where two or more are gathered, there shall be a RACE!"
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turtle, Did you see any improvement over the 3 link LR? We're just starting out in the mods, only running the 3 link a few times last year but I'm just not sure if the 3 link can hang with all of the 4 link cars. Thanks
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I've seen the all work but in my opinion the 4 bars are the most versatile idea out there right now.
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Mayflower, I had a 4-2 set up at one time. It was a metric clip, if that makes a difference. The left side 4 bar had the shock in front. The spring was behind on a coil over eliminator. Right side spring on top and shock behind both on the clamped mount. I had a real problem getting the car to turn, too much traction i guess. Did some searching on here and fixed the problem by using a reverse front spring split. The trailing arm on the right side happen to be 24 inches long. Wish i never got rid of that car because it turned so good. Thinking of doing the same thing to the car i have now.
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Mayflower, I had purchased the car with a bent rear clip in 2008. It had been sitting for over 10 years. I knew that it was an older design and I upgraded the LR to 4bar when I repaired the clip. I never ran it with the original 3 link.
Our Creed: "Where two or more are gathered, there shall be a RACE!"
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Thanks for the replies guys! Does anybody have any suggestions on 4 link bar lengths? I've read 15" and 17" is a typical setup but I'm open to other suggestions... Also, does anyone have any suggestions on 4 link mounts? - the_mayflower
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I make my own mounts. Used cardboard as a templete and cut it out, finish with a flap wheel and burn it in.
Way faster and less expensive than ordering and shipping and fitting it any way.
You can take your templetes to your local steel supplier and have them cut them out too. It's only 15 minutes so they charge about 10 dollar plus the steel.
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15 and 17 is what i use even now. Back when had the old car the right side trailing arm was 24 " long. Came that way. So i just ran it.
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Some guys use 15” uppers and 17” lowers, some guys use 18” uppers and 16” lowers, it all depends on how fast you want the car to get to ideal stance. Longer bars are smoother and take longer but shorter bars act quicker, offering more instant traction.
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