Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 22
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    139

    Default 230CC iron Eagle heads,383

    Wanted to ask and get a little more info on this combination using these heads. Putting together a SBC 383. 4340 3.750 crank, 4340 I beam 6.0 rods and forged flat top pistons. I will be using a flat tappet cam, 2 barrel Holley 4412 Carburetor, not totally stock of course. Turn no more than 7000 rpm's. Looking at a bowtie 23* Intake for it. The heads have 2.08 intake valve and 1.60 exh valves. Are these heads a little much ? How can they be used, if at all on this motor or do i need to wait to build a 406.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    3,223

    Default

    those will kill all kinds of low power and throttle response over the whole rpm range with a 4412

    I wouldnt use them at all period, its racing not just burning gas and money going in circles.

    put some vortec bowtie on your ft 383 and it will run great, angle and flat mill them and theyll run even better. they are the best head available in my opinion.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    thedirtysouth
    Posts
    4,005

    Default

    SCD is correct , way to much head for that 2brl , I do a lot of angle milled vortec for these type engines , its kind of like a restrictor plate engine , the more compression the better with that 2brl......

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    139

    Default

    Just needed some verification of what i was thinking. Thanks

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    139

    Default

    Just talked to a new engine builder today. Ask him about the vortec head and he did say it is the way to go. So i will be strapping them on and want to use a 4412 e85 carb. Good combo i hope

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    thedirtysouth
    Posts
    4,005

    Default

    for your requirements , about good as your gone get......

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    139

    Default

    Changed a couple of things. Staying with the same heads. Switching to a Holley HP 4 barrel 750 carb and a solid lifter cam. In. Lift .562- Ex. Lift .584. Lobe Sep. 106° In Dur. @ .050” 259° Ex. Dur. @ .050 269°. Will be using 1.52's roller rockers to help the lift.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,395

    Default

    Still too much head IMO. Ran friends car once, 360ci 13:1 pistons 6" rod with same heads on 4 barrel alky in limited late once. Car was dog on starts and throttle response off corner. If kept momentum was ok but have ran stronger 355's with smaller heads that would walk all over that motor from top to bottom but I'm anything close to engine builder

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    574

    Default

    The 2.08 valve is better suited to 4.125 bores and more cubic inches. Depending on the combination, you sometimes find that the larger head will be lazy up to a certain point, then when the engine comes alive it is hard to control. Almost like a light switch.
    A smaller head would make the best average TQ and HP and it is easier to drive all around . I think you are going to have a narrow power band with that combination. With a little work even the Sportsman II's work well on a 383 dirt engine.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    570

    Default

    we have 2.5, 1.6, 200cc iron eagles on our 383. awesome combo

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    thedirtysouth
    Posts
    4,005

    Default

    what are you talking about when you say 2.5 ?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    106

    Default

    I'm sure he meant 2.05 intake and 1.60 exhaust.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    139

    Default

    I have this combination now. ARP 4 bolt main and head studs in the block.. Scat 9000 3.75 crank, forged flat top pistons and scat I beam rods, 7/16 bolts. The cam will still be a solid lifter cam. In. Lift .562- Ex. Lift .584. Lobe Sep. 106° In Dur. @ .050” 259° Ex. Dur. @ .050 269°. Victor jr. high rise aluminum intake. The heads are aluminum. 205 runners. 2.02 1.60 valves and using the Holley HP 750 DP.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    829

    Default

    That seems like a really long cam. Mine is only 241@.050 with basically the same combination.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    844

    Default

    That's alot of cam, and will more than likely be lazy on restarts and up off the corner. With that long of duration and duration split you'll be blowing your cylinder pressure right out the exhaust. But besides the 205 heads it would make power to 8,000+ if that's how hard you'd wanna turn it. I'd pick a combination and call Jones Cam designs or similar and get a cam specd to your needs.
    Josh K.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    139

    Default

    So this cam being such a long duration would not be good for even a 1/2 mile track ? Want to keep the rpm's 7000 give or take. Assembly is internally balanced.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    829

    Default

    I'd think a long sweeping momentum track where the rpm stays up it would be better.
    Just judging on the specs given the cam seems like a generic off the shelf copy of an old school grind. It's kinda long for even 7k and less than ideal however if it's what ya got it'll work. Just know it's going to likely be a peaky power curve and narrow, coming on at maybe 5k to your 7k max.
    If you haven't bought the cam yet then I'd pick something in the 240ish@.050. IF you have and have to run it, I'd adavnace it 4'. That'll lower the rpm peak and where the power comes on but the trade off is the max power will be down some vrs the ideal cam timing.
    A custom grind even from a master list like Comp, (has a website that you can ask for recommendations and quotes) Howards, Bullet, is only a little more money but would net you a more enjoyable engine as they could get you closer to ideal. I'm not a cam expert, just been doing this a long time.
    Whichever way you go, verify the cam degree's manually. I've seen dowels indexed wrong, timing sets machined wrong, lobes machined wrong, gear marks wrong....I have a set by SA Gear on the shelf now that has a badly machined key way and it's 8' off. No reason to beat your self right from the beginning.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    139

    Default

    Yes lizard it is a off the shelf cam. Started to build this engine for a sport mod class and to change it all.Thought i knew what i was doing but i guess not. I'll either advance it 4 or just get another cam with the the 240ish @50. because i don't have to use this one i have now. Thanks for the help.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    139

    Default

    A lot of time has passed and want to beef this motor up. Raced the current motor specs right at 7,200 rpm's. I want to bore it to a .60 over with dome pistons at approx 12:1 compression and Assault aluminum 205 runner heads, 2.02 1.60 valves. Roller lifters, Roller cam at 630 lift with a lower duration than before. Victor jr 2975 intake, A balanced 4340 lower end. Billet main caps with main and head studs. 750 Demon Carb.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    thedirtysouth
    Posts
    4,005

    Default

    what block are you using?

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:47 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0
Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.