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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    6

    Default First time building a mustang dirt track car

    Hey guys, I'm jumping into the dirt track world and have a fox body mustang 2.3l. at this point I am looking for advice on where to begin with the suspension setup for a 1/3 mile track. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Ok so I haven't had any replies yet to this post, but it's ok. Basically what I have is a factory fox body mustang. I believe it's factory suspension all the way around. Would it be best if I just run what is on there and see how she handles, then tune accordingly from there? Any information would help at this point. I see on some other posts that the right front should be stiffer than the left and the left rear needs to be soft for going though corners. I just don't the know the specifics. Thanks!

  3. #3

    Default

    hey been years since I drove but here is a link to a good start.
    http://www.4m.net/archive/index.php/t-197190.html
    Daniel #27 mini stock

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Hey thanks! I really appreciate it!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    thedirtysouth
    Posts
    3,289

    Default

    one thing i remember from back when they ran them here , the cars running up front took the left upper control arm off the rear end to keep the rear from binding up , kind of like a 3 link.......

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Ok, I'm not sure I understand what you mean. It's a solid axle on the rear end so there is no control arms. My mustang is an 89. Can you explain a little more? Thanks!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    thedirtysouth
    Posts
    3,289

    Default

    the fox rear is a 4 link with out a panhard bar , it uses the upper control arms to locate the rear side to side like a metric gm chassis , the only difference is the rear springs are located on the lower control arms , which is called a swing arm in late model terms , unlike the metric , that has the springs on top of rear , you can remove the left upper control arm and leave the right upper on to control side to side , the advantage to this is the rear will not bind up under body roll , like a metric , keeping the left rear tire on the ground . you can understand this better if you jack left rear up with left upper bar on and see how far tire drops , then take it off and jack up , you will be surprised ...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Oh! Awesome thanks!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    thedirtysouth
    Posts
    3,289

    Default

    all so , because a strut front end will not gain camber like a suspension with a upper A-arm will , you have to start with a lot of static camber in the right front , best i can remember , we ran some where around 6 to 8 degrees , i would start there and check my tire temp across the tire to fine tune , hope this helps you , good luck , one more thing , a 2 to 1 quickner works out pretty good with a stock rack...........

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    6

    Default

    This is great info, and I truly appreciate it. I do have a quickener on the steering so i think I'm headed in the right direction. I'll keep you posted on the progress and once again thanks!

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