Oil PROBLEMS!

[12doublej]

I have a Dart alum block set up on dry sump. The oil pressure is good at idle, but after it runs 15-20 minutes and warms to around 140 the oil tank runs low/dry and oil starts pouring out the valve cover breathers!!! Does anyone have any idea what is going on? I can rev it up and it draws it down/back into engine for a second, but as soon as I let up back out it comes! I have changed the dry sump pump to another used one with the same results. ANY ADVICE? IDEAS? Thanks!

[Jking24]

Sounds like for what ever reason entirely to much oil is going to the top end and the valley is sealed with a devoted sump and that is being overwhelmed at idle. Their almost has to be a galley plug out or a restrictor missing. Or possibly the wrong lifters. Is this a new build ?

[12doublej]

Not a new build. Ran last year, didn't change anything, but it died unexpectedly while racing and I got slammed and broke the j-bar. I didn't know what happened first. J-bar or engine. Found a broken lifter and replaced.

[Jking24]

Are you sure you got the right lifter their are different heights and if it's not right it can create a massive internal oil leak and possibly starve the rest off the lifters on that bank. Regardless that's where i would be looking first it sounds like the leak is bad enough you can probably see it with the valley pan or valve cover off and cranking the engine. Pull the plugs off needed to get a little more rpm while cranking

[12doublej]

Thanks JKing, Sounds like a plan

[billetbirdcage]

It sounds like the scavenge sections aren't removing the oil from the engine but since you replaced the pump it makes me think you have a line/fitting on the scavenge side sucking air instead of pulling the oil.

This sort of makes sense that it could be a leak since increasing RPM's is enough to over come the leak and start pulling oil. If you have non American made AN fittings (swivels) look at them closely at the swivel or replace the lines one at a time with another known good line.

OR

If you do in fact have a sealed lifter galley (they are sealed from dart unless you drill/mill them open) then look especially at that section of the pump or line going to the back of the block to remove oil from lifter galley for issues. For some reason it's not removing the oil from the lifter galley.

[fastford]

Are you sure you got the right lifter their are different heights and if it's not right it can create a massive internal oil leak and possibly starve the rest off the lifters on that bank. Regardless that's where i would be looking first it sounds like the leak is bad enough you can probably see it with the valley pan or valve cover off and cranking the engine. Pull the plugs off needed to get a little more rpm while cranking

i took an old 1/2 inch drill and used it to rig up to pull the pump , not very hard to do.....

[12doublej]

Thanks Jking, billet and fastford. It was indeed a bad lifter filling up the valley. It did have 1 drain in the rear and 1 in the front and no scavenge provision. I swapped out for proper height. Hopefully this fixes it, since I haven't started it yet -- waiting for sealant to dry good.

[billetbirdcage]

Thanks Jking, billet and fastford. It was indeed a bad lifter filling up the valley. It did have 1 drain in the rear and 1 in the front and no scavenge provision. I swapped out for proper height. Hopefully this fixes it, since I haven't started it yet -- waiting for sealant to dry good.

Better be careful. If you have only 2 holes that may not be enough for sufficient drain with no suction line to lifter galley.

I know the sheet from dart used to say drill a 9/16th hole in back for drain with a wet sump (and the factory front hole on the china wall in front on block). I can tell you for a fact that won't cut it, so you could probably get into a similar situation with the dry sump.

[Jking24]

Glad we could help

[Kromulous]

Just for asking's sake, could you plumb a line from the right side head down to the oil pan? Some mod guys do this to help with drain back. Seems like it would help if you don't have a scavenge set-up to the valley.

[12doublej]

I have a fitting that is capped off on the right side valve cover. I might could run a line down to the oil pan drain plug. I don't think there are any other unused fittings on the pan. Good idea Krom! Thanks!

[fastford]

if its on the valve cover , i would think it is to high to use for a drain back and probably was for a oil sprayer...

[Kromulous]

The one's i seen were drilled into the head, just below the rail for the gasket. Usually like a -8 AN bull nose tapped in there, guess its a 3/8's NPT, and then the line down to the oil pan. I cant remember if its on the front or back of the head, will see if i can find a pic.

Guys up at Eldora do it a lot on Mods, the right side valve cover will hold all the oil if drain back is not really good.

[racedad11]

Replying to Krom. Our Dargie engine has the line you are talking about. We are a regular at Eldora