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  1. #21

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    thats my next idea is to put a 300 in rf try stiffing it up some all the way threw travel and i just got one of the swift 2.5-5 80lb springs for lr has anyone had any luck with it?
    Last edited by maypop racing engines; 09-05-2019 at 07:57 AM.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    10,967

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    Quote Originally Posted by maypop racing engines View Post
    thats my next idea is to put a 300 in rf try stiffing it up some all the way threw travel and i just got one of the swift 2.5-5 80lb springs for lr has anyone had any luck with it?
    If you need an 80# spring, it will serve you well. Nothing magic.
    Droop isn't the problem.

    Arizona Speedway-2. Ohio Valley-1
    East Bay-2. Lawrenceburg-2
    All-Tech-1. Florence-3
    Volusia-1. Portsmouth-3
    Jackson -4. I77 -1
    Mudlick -1
    Moler -2
    Atomic-2

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    377

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    Totally Agree MBR, with that I wouldn't use a single LR spring unless your bound to it by a rule (crates lates usually)

  4. #24

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    iv ran stacks on it and sucked lol im thinkin just use straight springs on all 4 corners and breaking out the scales and set it up like it was 2010 not sure if thats the answer or not but dont think it could be much worse

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    387

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    You ran a digressive stack?

  6. #26

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    I can tell you for a fact there is a difference in early and late xr1s. I have felt it

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    10,967

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    Quote Originally Posted by sidewinder69 View Post
    I can tell you for a fact there is a difference in early and late xr1s. I have felt it
    How many of each did you drive with shocks, components, and dynamic where loads all the same?
    Droop isn't the problem.

    Arizona Speedway-2. Ohio Valley-1
    East Bay-2. Lawrenceburg-2
    All-Tech-1. Florence-3
    Volusia-1. Portsmouth-3
    Jackson -4. I77 -1
    Mudlick -1
    Moler -2
    Atomic-2

  8. #28

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    I just pulled shocks off one and put on the other and back to back. Early xr1s are better

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    111

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    We don't have an XR-1 but I've heard of a couple local Super teams that went back to 16 cars because they didn't like the 18.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    377

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    Sooo, how are they better? Serious question! There are different cages, 4 bar plates, LR available drop, bar/s in frame, welded rack skid plate, custom options only some add or delete, etc, etc. If updates were or were not done, two of the same year could be very different, also depends how it was ordered, built, and components used. Track lore spreads as fast as a bad fart, is very situational and subjective. I see plenty of newer cars for sale with old components on them. The used racecar market is a venomous snake pit! Buyer beware!
    Last edited by CCHIEF; 09-06-2019 at 01:31 PM.

  11. #31
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    10,967

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    Quote Originally Posted by CCHIEF View Post
    Sooo, how are they better? Serious question! There are different cages, 4 bar plates, LR available drop, bar/s in frame, welded rack skid plate, custom options only some add or delete, etc, etc. If updates were or were not done, two of the same year could be very different, also depends how it was ordered, built, and components used. Track lore spreads as fast as a bad fart, is very situational and subjective. I see plenty of newer cars for sale with old components on them. The used racecar market is a venomous snake pit! Buyer beware!
    That snake pit extends to engines and lots of other racing items. You are right on with that comment. It's scary out there!
    Droop isn't the problem.

    Arizona Speedway-2. Ohio Valley-1
    East Bay-2. Lawrenceburg-2
    All-Tech-1. Florence-3
    Volusia-1. Portsmouth-3
    Jackson -4. I77 -1
    Mudlick -1
    Moler -2
    Atomic-2

  12. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by billetbirdcage View Post
    In case I made my post sound wrong: Slick or powdery stop and go tracks with an XR1 aren't great using something similar to the baseline set up. You will need to stray a fair ways from the base, in a couple area's but again really depends on the track, dirt, tires and rules.

    The baseline is more for when you can momentum race, IMO.
    Which areas needs to get away from baseline? Same problem happening but only on very small, paperclip track, that is very dry

  13. #33
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,502

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    I'm definitely not saying this will be 100% fix for everyone or every track and tire rule:

    Adjusting the rear weight can/will help a lot of people in those conditions. OP said K cars run good there, now that could just be the teams but K cars (least last I knew a year ago) run about 2% more rear.

    Again this could worsen your problem depending on the track, but if it's tight corners and more one lane then more rear may help a fair amount getting the car turned and off the corner.

  14. #34

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    mastersbilt, iv had a decent local guy drive my car (wide cage) he has a xr1 former house car (narrow) we put his shocks on and he said the car dont have the same feel as his does ....now hes confident the car is good there is just somthing missing somewhere but when he drove the track wasnt slick is the downfall

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,225

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    new cars travel more, some know how to work with it, some don't

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    377

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    House cars are usually heavily optioned, some options don't make it to production or are impossible to change, result of them doing research for Their customers. Without getting into the details, swapping shocks from a 16 to a new car, or other direction, results in a big change in the car. ...Anyone wanting rid of one of the "junk" new chassis's, cheap .....please contact me via PM.

  17. #37

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    cchief tried sending you pm your inbox is full

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