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  1. #1

    Default Blue/Gray Upgrades

    Been out of the racing scene for about 8 years. Looking to maybe buy a 09 blue/gray chassis with 15 updates to start back into racing. My question is, I still have my old 06 blue/gray that did get the wide rf update back in 11, but nothing else. Will any parts off of it fit into this newer chassis? I was thinking I would keep them for spares if anything would work on the newer car. I believe it is an 09 with 15 updates. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    754

    Default

    While most are running xr1 front suspension on b/g cars now. Every thing from your 06 will work as spares. I think the lf upper was different back then but other than that. All the components on a b/g were the same until the end. The later spindals had serated steering arms instead of just two holes. The big thing the is the raised crossmember. These cars can still get the job done in crate and limited in most situations

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Port Royal PA
    Posts
    191

    Default Blue/Gray

    I'll agree with that.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    636

    Default

    what is the difference in the bg suspension and the xr1?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    754

    Default

    Dimensionally the uppers are the same but the xr has caster slugs in them, the lowers are the same length but the strut rod portion is slightly different to accommodate the more aggressive camber/ caster settings on the xr. The spindals are the biggest thing they are different heights aswell as a change in pin inclination

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    110

    Default

    All of the B/G stuff will work. The '15 update should give it the flat plate rack mount which has additional ground clearance. There is one more update in '18 that gives an additional 1/2" of clearance. That rack plate a flat but has a piece of round tubing that is notched from almost nothing on one side to full tubing diameter on the other.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Jking24 is it worth going with XR1 stuff on the front if you have all good components of a B/G. I don't run anything real aggressive, not that I'm against it just haven't gotten my B/G car consistent and or fast hahaha

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    754

    Default

    No i wouldn't run out and buy xr stuff. The spindals are the biggest thing but i don't think their gonna make or break the average situation. If your competing for wins every night and need the next lit bit maybe but Otherwise i would run the blue/ grey stuff you have as long as it's straight and free of any binds. If i were looking to spend money on a older car it would be better spent on maintenance items like bird cage bearings good ball joints teflon himes etc... and then making shore my shock package was up to date.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Good deal, that’s good to know because before too long I’m sure used good Blue/Gray stuff will be hard to find and XR1 stuff will do just fine.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    754

    Default

    I have seen far more people struggle trying to push the new setups on older cars than the ladder. Not that it can't be applied but your never gonna travel a b/g like a xr1. So how is your time better spent at the race track tunning on your car or working on the nose because it crashes every week and folds the valance under. So people say raise the nose yes this needs to happen but the point is you can only go so far. Because once you get the nose to not hit it will be the rack plate crashing and sending these car into a push. The problem with the older cars is they can be really fast but they are so close to bottoming out that it becomes very driver/ track dependent. One guy might be able to make good laps on x load number but the next guy is a little harder on the brake pedal and it bottoms out and it's complete junk. The other issue is the mixing and matching of components. Smash numbers are really sensitive to the location of everything from a geometry stand point. If the birdcages are slid in or out a little bit or the left to right is different, or the shock mount is in a little different location it will change the number alot. This it what makes it hard to give load/ smash numbers for a older car. What i do when i help someone with a older car is scale it traditionally first. Once we're happy with it we measure center to center's on all shocks. Then we smash using those center to center's. we start from their and go to the track. We're monitor travel, attitude and overall handling and adjust from their until we have a happy medium
    Last edited by Jking24; 02-14-2020 at 09:35 AM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Is there a proven “known” in doing some chassis modifications, like stiffening up certain areas and how people have gone about it?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    754

    Default

    My personal opinion is no their is not. I have seen it done to various degrees with mixed results. The most popular being the b pillar upright bar and under slung bars. The problem is most of the time when you see this happen the chassis has changed hands. So sometimes a known Good car runs worse and sometimes it runs better. What i will add is I've never felt like it was the difference maker. Will it add some foreseeable life to a old chassis ? maybe but one thing to think about is generally the stiffer the chassis there narrower the tunning window is (sweet spot) so it can be a double edge sword

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Port Royal PA
    Posts
    191

    Default

    The 19 update added 2 bars. Both to stiffen the chassis.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    10,558

    Default

    All the older cars parallelogram at the a arm mounts and upper rails going around the track. Some others have issue with the Halo moving around because of loads in the back. All of that is undesirable.
    Droop isn't the problem.

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  15. #15

    Default

    What is the b pillar upright bar? What 2 bars were added for 19?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    2,906

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fwdbite View Post
    What is the b pillar upright bar? What 2 bars were added for 19?
    What HE said...
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    Class of 2019

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    754

    Default

    The b pillar bar is the tube that appears to go straight down from the rf roof area into the deck. It supports the 5th coil mounting tube aswell as strengthens the green house area of the cage in the event of a rollover landing on the rf corner of the halo bar

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