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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    847

    Default 3 link soft lr spring

    ive played with this and its really good when the track is fast. My question is, when corner entry speeds drop the lr falls out of the sky before i get in and upsets the car, once its hiked back up it gets traction again but i lose side bite when it drops. has any other b mod or sport mod guys found a remedy to help this some besides the obvious shock

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Johnson Creek, WI
    Posts
    116

    Default

    how much extended load are you using with the LR spring? you could try increasing the load if you dont have much

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    2,929

    Default

    Did you soften the RF as it slicked off so its stays down ?

    Add more compression valving in the shock, to help keep it up, and or tie down on the RF, or both.

    More extended load may or may not loosen the entry, but worth a shot.

    Just say no...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,935

    Default

    This isn't to bag on a driver, but before you start changing stuff or crutch'ing the car with a super stiff shock: You need to make sure that the driver is doing his job to keep the car loaded and not let it sit down. Sure you can help the car with other things but it will never be as fast if the driver is doing the right thing in the car and trail braking to keep the car up

    Just my opinion

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    847

    Default

    yea ive got the rf tied down and lr comp pretty high with 3" preload. On more round tracks its not as bad when the car stays rolled but longer straight tight turn tracks is when it shows up the worst

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    2,929

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    How is the shock / spring connected to the axle? Sounds like the shock is in front of the axle, and connected to the rear end, and or spring on housing?

    As Billet said, trail brake it with a brake floater possible?

    Just say no...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Johnson Creek, WI
    Posts
    116

    Default

    I found with the soft preloaded spring I was able to take compression out of my LR shock as its easier to keep the car hiked up with some trail braking.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    847

    Default

    we cant run brake floaters or that would fix this. its on a solid 2 link bracket in front of the axle. ive tried behind but couldnt feel any difference. ive also got a lr shock you cant compress by hand ive tried and doesnt change it much

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,935

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riddle28 View Post
    we cant run brake floaters or that would fix this. its on a solid 2 link bracket in front of the axle. ive tried behind but couldnt feel any difference. ive also got a lr shock you cant compress by hand ive tried and doesnt change it much
    I'm going to take a stab at this: Back to driving: Is the driver off the gas and decelerating/coasting to more the physical middle of the corner over backing off the gas early and then back into gas upon turning in? While I know not all tracks can be driven this way, it makes a huge difference.

  10. #10
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    Apr 2010
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    847

    Default

    i feel like im pretty good at trail breaking and keeping everything loaded, ill even idle way up when it slows down. my technique is usually to start apply the same amount of brake as what im rolling out of the gas if that makes sense. never completely off the gas til after apex or later

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    847

    Default

    i meant brake

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    That spring in front on the axle bracket will start to unload super quick, with the slightest movement of the rear end. Even if it begins to loose bite down the straight away, and the pull bar begins to unload it will start dropping that LR down. Are you running a pull bar or solid?

    Do you have a 90/10 over the rear end?

    Just say no...

  13. #13
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    Apr 2010
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    847

    Default

    Over the pull bar? We have to run solid so I didn’t think that would affect anything?

  14. #14
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    Apr 2010
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    847

    Default

    And our springs have to mount on the axle center line, no sliders or coil overs

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    2,929

    Default

    Ok, just trying to understand what exactly your running. Anyway, if its legal, i think i would still put the 90/10 and run it upwards from the rear end to the Chassis. When its hiked up it will extend the shock, and could help with drop down.

    That or try to move the pull bar, to the LR on the rear end housing a 1/4" at a time, and see if that helps. Careful with this one, its a big move, and may make you dead tight, and shove the nose.

    You can bias the 90/10 over to the LR as well.

    Take this all with a grain of salt, been awhile since i tinkered with a Mod, but i use to run a 2 link a lot back in the day ! were just getting back into Mods now, with a Pierce M1 so...

    Just say no...

  16. #16

    Default

    If I understand the OP correctly, he’s running an IMCA northern sport mod. That means solid pullbar within 1” of centerline of driveshaft, solid pullbar, no springs or bushings springs on top of axle on jack bolts, and shocks mounted behind the axle. Hope that helps clear up questions for anyone trying to help.



    Also, must run a solid, straight panhard bar behind the rearend
    Last edited by Confused?; 12-05-2019 at 11:39 AM.
    Bill W. and Dr. Bob......who could have known.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    847

    Default

    durrence layne, which is pretty much usra b mod or northern sport mod rules like you said except for no sliders on lr

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