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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    212

    Default Lightweigt battery

    Looking for a good lightweight battery. The lithium stuff looks real nice but am I going to get $1000 worth of performance out of it. The current battery is a 12v lead acid mounted behind driver over the axle tube. Not having trouble out of it just looking for anything to get faster. With that being said buying one would not cause us to skimp on new tires or shock maintenance or cut corners anywhere else.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    13,615

    Default

    Just run a mag and push start it.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -1

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    212

    Default

    battery is only a hundred or two dollars more than a mag and way more advantages to the battery

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    399

    Default

    Move it.... unless you have no lead on your car, then you need to drop weight elsewhere....maybe the DRIVER!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    896

    Default

    Take a look at the Dynabatt that Davis Distributors makes. It only weighs about 13 pounds, is very compact and cost around $160. They, oddly, don't give ratings for it but the durability and power it gives is awesome. Karl Fredrickson, of Speedway Illustrated, says they've had the same one in their asphalt Modified for over 10 years and they love it.
    We're going to get one for our older car that could use a little diet if this season ever happens.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,935

    Default

    Look at it this way!

    If you need to save weight, where else are you going to save between 15 and 30# for a thousand bucks?

    Not easy to do for that amount of money for sure.

    There are batteries out there that weight as little as 4# but more then the $1000.00 but if you were using a regular full sized battery, then it weighed around 39 to 49#. That's a huge weight cut.
    Last edited by billetbirdcage; 04-01-2020 at 01:50 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,935

    Default

    I should also add:

    Removing that much weight typically mounted high may require a change on lead placement or alter your set up some.

    So remember that if the car acts different

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    212

    Default

    But does a 4# battery have enough capacity to crank maybe multiple times and last a full race

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,935

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mopar DLM View Post
    But does a 4# battery have enough capacity to crank maybe multiple times and last a full race
    Yes, but that battery is 4 times the money we was talking about. Most of your lithium batteries in that 1000.00 range are 8 to 10# and will last a race no problem but do need recharged often. Since they are typically half the size, many teams run 2 of them in the same battery box just for safety.

    Now keep in mind you see a lot more battery issues then before if you watch Lucas oil or WoO. No idea of the brand everyone is running or having issues with but he go lithium is pretty popular.

    If it's not a lithium battery and very low weight like around 10 to 12# then it might be on the limit of how long the battery will last for anything but short races.
    Last edited by billetbirdcage; 04-01-2020 at 05:19 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,935

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by over4T View Post
    Take a look at the Dynabatt that Davis Distributors makes. It only weighs about 13 pounds, is very compact and cost around $160. They, oddly, don't give ratings for it but the durability and power it gives is awesome. Karl Fredrickson, of Speedway Illustrated, says they've had the same one in their asphalt Modified for over 10 years and they love it.
    We're going to get one for our older car that could use a little diet if this season ever happens.
    PS: That dynabatt battery is just a rebranded Genesis G16EP battery (least it in the past assume it's still the same)

    https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-Hawke.../dp/B0002ILK68

    You can buy it here for 100.00

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    896

    Default

    Interesting billet. Didn't figure Davis actually made them. Best I can dig up is that they're 675 cca. Frederickson said you had to keep up with keeping them charged but I do like the extended time they are said to last. Been only getting a couple of seasons out of the Interstates we've been using the last few years at $200+ a pop. May try one ...if we ever get a season this year. Thanks for the info.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,935

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by over4T View Post
    Interesting billet. Didn't figure Davis actually made them. Best I can dig up is that they're 675 cca. Frederickson said you had to keep up with keeping them charged but I do like the extended time they are said to last. Been only getting a couple of seasons out of the Interstates we've been using the last few years at $200+ a pop. May try one ...if we ever get a season this year. Thanks for the info.
    http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm

    Read that if you want more info.

    Again a small light weight alkaline battery is going to have limited capacity compared to a lithium. You are going to give up a lot of capacity with a light weight alkaline type batteries. My suggestion would be if you stay alkaline to stay more in the 16 to 20# range, but again depends on you engine, race length and situation.

    You guys can read it for yourself and make you own minds up but here is a section from it.

    "The reserve capacity is the number of minutes a fully-charged battery at 80ºF (26.7ºC) can discharge 25 amps and not drop below 10.5 volts. The G16EP/PC680 battery has a reserve capacity of 28 minutes. However, a "usable" reserve capacity of only 19 minutes is also listed. I would guess the "usable" rating means the battery should retain enough power to run the engine starter. At 10.5 volts, the battery is discharged and will not turn the starter. The starter in the 3000GT/Stealth, by the way, draws up to 90 amps or more."

    19 to 28 minutes isn't a lot of time at 25 amps, but a lot of that will depend how much you drew from the battery by starting it and will have a huge effect on run time.
    Last edited by billetbirdcage; 04-02-2020 at 02:14 PM.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    399

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by billetbirdcage View Post
    Look at it this way! If you need to save weight, where else are you going to save between 15 and 30# for a thousand bucks? Not easy to do for that amount of money for sure. There are batteries out there that weight as little as 4# but more then the $1000.00 but if you were using a regular full sized battery, then it weighed around 39 to 49#. That's a huge weight cut.
    Agree, but, I have seen some things, like bolt on intrusion plates, that really add unnecessary weight. Mopar DLM, what is your minimum weight requirement?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    896

    Default

    Thanks for the link billet, interesting read and gives me something else to ponder during this downtime. I also better take a look at the various chargers and battery tenders in the shop before I decide. I'm optimistically pessimistic (oxymoron like jumbo shrimp?) about there even being a season this year,

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    212

    Default

    CCHIEF, for the car it's 2350 after the race with a # a lap burn off

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    847

    Default

    i bought a dyna batt and it wouldnt even turn my crate over, dont recommend

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    399

    Default

    So, what does your car weigh with driver, no lead? Or how much lead you adding, if any, to make weight? What engine deal in it also, wet /dry sump, iron or alum block/heads? Also what year/make car........................................ I guess the other simple question would be are you overweight without any ballast. Trying to determine if you got a heavy car, components, driver or none of the above.
    Last edited by CCHIEF; 04-06-2020 at 12:15 PM.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    212

    Default

    With driver it's 2356. One chunk of lead 25#. All aluminum dodge on dry sump in a 09 updated to 15 B/G rocket.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    28

    Default

    We've run the XS 1000 16v battery since 2013 with no issues. They weigh 30.8 lbs and cost $329 from Speedway. SLM with 14.5 compression, no alternator, on tender during week. I hope everyone and their families are keeping safe with this Covid-19 deal. Back here in New Zealand we have been in full lock down for two weeks.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Marengo IN
    Posts
    247

    Default

    Most of us here are too Kiwi. State by state orders. Hope y'all are safe as well. My track promoter has the virus. My first experience with those 16Vs was back in the summer. Wow. Working with another team that ran them. So much of a difference. Not sure exact location in that rocket(seems like LR corner fairly high). But at 30.8 pounds you could do a little relocating and possibly come out pretty good

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