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  1. #1

    Default Wheel load measurement

    When a builder gives you a baseline wheel lid number does that mean wheel load at dynamic ride height or static ride height?

    If dynamic, how do I figure out my dynamic ride height.

    Trying to find the right springs to get me close to this.

    675lf
    600rf
    350rr
    650lr
    Older smackdown. No S7

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
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    10,670

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rosco View Post
    When a builder gives you a baseline wheel lid number does that mean wheel load at dynamic ride height or static ride height?

    If dynamic, how do I figure out my dynamic ride height.

    Trying to find the right springs to get me close to this.

    675lf
    600rf
    350rr
    650lr
    Older smackdown. No S7

    Thanks in advance
    Those numbers are static ride height. And not really "wheel load". It's the spring load as measured in a smasher.

    You can get there with any springs.

    If you want something simple, try the following.

    LF- 500#. Rf- 325# and two purple roller skate wheel bumps. Use a flat divider washer between them. 2400# @ 3.75" travel from ride height pin to pin.

    LR - 150#. RR- 250#
    Last edited by MasterSbilt_Racer; 05-02-2020 at 11:17 AM.
    Droop isn't the problem.

    Arizona Speedway-2. Ohio Valley-1
    East Bay-2. Lawrenceburg-2
    All-Tech-1. Florence-1
    Volusia-1
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    Mudlick -1
    Moler -2
    Atomic-1

  3. #3

    Default

    How do I get there with the springs I have without effecting ride height?

    Thanks

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rosco View Post
    How do I get there with the springs I have without effecting ride height?

    Thanks
    You set your car at ride height. Measure pin to pin. Now put your coilovers in the smasher and adjust your coilovers nuts to match these loads at the pin to pin measurements you took from the car.
    Droop isn't the problem.

    Arizona Speedway-2. Ohio Valley-1
    East Bay-2. Lawrenceburg-2
    All-Tech-1. Florence-1
    Volusia-1
    Jackson -4
    Mudlick -1
    Moler -2
    Atomic-1

  5. #5

    Default

    Awesome thanks.

    One more question. I have the older Smackdown without the raised rail. I might raise it next year but for now Id like to go as soft on springs as the other guys.

    What do you think about stacking bump stops to keep the frame and struts from bottoming?

    Right now my rf has a white speedythane 58mm tall bump stop. Not sure how much height I would need to keep it from bottoming.

    Thanks again

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    10,670

    Default

    You can't go as soft with that small of a travel window. You might get by with 275#. You won't be able to travel more than 3.75" on the shock without beating your frame in the track. So, your load there better be 2400# or more, as I instructed.

    The lack of ground clearance limits what you can do. The crossmember is as big a problem as the frame rail. The front crossmember, for the lower a arm struts, will get you too because the bolts will dig in.
    Last edited by MasterSbilt_Racer; 05-02-2020 at 09:17 PM.
    Droop isn't the problem.

    Arizona Speedway-2. Ohio Valley-1
    East Bay-2. Lawrenceburg-2
    All-Tech-1. Florence-1
    Volusia-1
    Jackson -4
    Mudlick -1
    Moler -2
    Atomic-1

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks again!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    2,917

    Default

    Rosco... subscribe to RaceKnowHow.com. Tader Masters has several good videos there relating to springs, ride heights etc. featuring his cars. Lots of info from others as well. It really helps to see guys explaining what you need to do. Best $9.00 per month a new guy can spend.

    Id like to see guys like MBR do some videos too since he runs an older MB...
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
    Class of 2019

  9. #9

    Default

    Thanks Krooser
    I actually have Race Know How but Im still trying to fill in the blanks in between. Im a true rookie and just trying to get a good handle on what makes these things tick and what the go-to adjustments are.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    thedirtysouth
    Posts
    3,239

    Default

    what the soft rt front set up does to the left rear is as important as any thing , you will never really benefit from a soft right front on your chassis , you can go as soft as you want on the rt front and stack bumps up to keep it off the ground , but your not accomplishing any thing , i would take MBR,s advice on on a simple get started set up....jmo....also i have saw some use a raised rt spindle to gain some travel , but i personally never liked that crutch.....

  11. #11

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by fastford View Post
    what the soft rt front set up does to the left rear is as important as any thing , you will never really benefit from a soft right front on your chassis , you can go as soft as you want on the rt front and stack bumps up to keep it off the ground , but your not accomplishing any thing , i would take MBR,s advice on on a simple get started set up....jmo....also i have saw some use a raised rt spindle to gain some travel , but i personally never liked that crutch.....
    When you say stacked springs. What height springs are usually stacked together? I'm not going to start playing around with them yet but I would like to have some in the trailer. Just another tool in the tool box as they say.

    Thanks for your input. I will definitely keep it simple for now. Cant thank you guys enough, I'm a green horn.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    thedirtysouth
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    i was talking about stacking up bump stops to keep from bottoming out , a 2 stage stacked spring is basically the same soft set up but instead of a bump to stop rapid travel , it uses a lock out type nut so after the desired soft rate travel , you hit the heavy spring which stops the rapid travel , this is what we use on a rough track but if the track is smooth , then we use a soft single spring ( been down as low as a 150 # but usually between a 200 and 250 ) and bump stop , this is a simple over view , shock valving , different types of bump stops and a whole bunch of other variables come into play , like left rear bar placement , start with what you have and if this is your thing , then find you a newer chassis and a good shock man , good luck.....

  13. #13

    Default

    Cool thanks man

  14. #14

    Default

    Quick question. Im trying to find a 16 125lb spring to use on the left rear of my Mastersbilt.

    The only springs I see available are Hypero and Swift barrel springs. Any preferences anyone?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    831

    Default

    Hyperco are good springs for the money. I have only limited experience with swift but they are quality springs that come at a quality cost imo

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Lost, but way ahead of schedule
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    1,245

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    I thought PAC Springs had just about anything you could imagine as well, even off-road stuff. I ran one on a MasterSbilt and didn't have any issues. But now I see they don't list anything. Maybe give them a call and see if they have left over stuff for cheap...?

    Here's their website: https://www.racingsprings.com/index....nside-dia.html
    Last edited by TheJet-09; 05-06-2020 at 05:17 PM.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
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    10,670

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    A 14" will work just fine in that rate. Or better yet, a couple of 250# with a nylon between.
    Droop isn't the problem.

    Arizona Speedway-2. Ohio Valley-1
    East Bay-2. Lawrenceburg-2
    All-Tech-1. Florence-1
    Volusia-1
    Jackson -4
    Mudlick -1
    Moler -2
    Atomic-1

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,449

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TheJet-09 View Post
    I thought PAC Springs had just about anything you could imagine as well, even off-road stuff. I ran one on a MasterSbilt and didn't have any issues. But now I see they don't list anything. Maybe give them a call and see if they have left over stuff for cheap...?

    Here's their website: https://www.racingsprings.com/index....nside-dia.html
    Try this: https://www.racingsprings.com/media/...er-Catalog.pdf

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Bud watson on Facebook had alot of leftover pac stock he bought when they shut down the suspension side.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    thedirtysouth
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View Post
    A 14" will work just fine in that rate. Or better yet, a couple of 250# with a nylon between.
    yep , i like the stacked 250,s the best because they will not deflect like a single 125 , also we ran good on a 80 lb swift single barrel or some call it a tornado spring .

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