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  1. #21
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    The xr1 keeps the bar lengths the same the whole top bar is moved rearward and the bottom is moved forward at ride height. The shock location and the indexing are virtualy unchanged. Basically it just clocks the starting point back

  2. #22
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    May 2007
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    Batavia, OH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jking24 View Post
    The xr1 keeps the bar lengths the same the whole top bar is moved rearward and the bottom is moved forward at ride height. The shock location and the indexing are virtualy unchanged. Basically it just clocks the starting point back
    That's one of the deals out there. And what everyone was first calling "zero index". Krom is right there are deals out there using the most front hole on the cage, yet are still 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock at full hike. I'm not sure how those are set up. And I've seen that on rockets as well.
    Droop isn't the problem.

    Arizona Speedway - 2
    Alltech -1
    East Bay - 6

  3. #23
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    May 2007
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    Spent all weekend at the North South, looked at every XR1 there and there are all on it. Top bar FWD 1", Bottom bar AFT 1" with the birdcage straight up and down at full droop, not the bolts, the cage is straight up and down. Top bar ends up with some extreme angle in it, and the bottom is somewhat neutral.

    Still looking into it.

    Just say no...

  4. #24
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    May 2007
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    Double post, but i will end up trying it soon.

    Just say no...

  5. #25
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    Oct 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kromulous View Post
    Spent all weekend at the North South, looked at every XR1 there and there are all on it. Top bar FWD 1", Bottom bar AFT 1" with the birdcage straight up and down at full droop, not the bolts, the cage is straight up and down. Top bar ends up with some extreme angle in it, and the bottom is somewhat neutral.Still looking into it.
    Not sure i follow you 100% are you talking about on the cage or the chassis. Their are three sets of holes on each

  6. #26
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    May 2007
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    I am speaking of the birdcage holes, fwd set on the top, back set on the bottom. I didnt pay attention to the chassis side.

    IF there keeping the bar lengths the same, would make since to have 3 sets of holes on the chassis plates.

    Can anyone see this image?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Kromulous; 08-19-2020 at 04:10 PM.

    Just say no...

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    273

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    If the top bar gives the tire more drive instead of raising up on cage can you not just lower the bottom
    To 5.5 and lower it on frame wouldnt this give car more drive and keep it straighter off corner?

  8. #28
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    Oct 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kromulous View Post
    I am speaking of the birdcage holes, fwd set on the top, back set on the bottom. I didnt pay attention to the chassis side. IF there keeping the bar lengths the same, would make since to have 3 sets of holes on the chassis plates.Can anyone see this image?
    Can't see the image but that is the "standard position" for a xr1 top bar all the way forward bottom all the way back it can be deceiving because the way the birdcage plates are cut. It looks like they are at six and twelve at full drop but they are not. That being said the xr has alot less indexing then the older stuff when all bars, lengths and positions are standard .

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    29

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    Listen guys, I fancy myself a setup guy. I do not have alot of experience driving, I did drive a bomber car for 2 years, but I did not have time to work 50 hours a week and race, so 12 years ago I choose to concentrate on helping others with their cars. I feel that I am above average at observing a car of any class go around the track, and I also very much enjoy 3/4 link cars and discussing what makes them work. The first thing I noticed about the Longhorns/xr1's/later cvr'sl capitals was that they rolled the middle of the corner on the throttle MUCH better than the stuff before them. Since the late 1990's, the 4 bar stuff was extremely tight from the middle out. I the 1990's they were almost drag cars that raced twice per lap, on dirt. The newer stuff rolls the middle and out much better on the throttle, which can only be due to a few things............softter effective right front spring rate, and/or more rebound rate on the right front...........or less left rear drive, caused by less left rear drop as measured by total number of left rear drop in inches, or murch more left rear rebound rate, which causes the left rear to drop much more slowly as throttle is applied. Add to this the addition of right front bump stops, and one pretty much has the magic of all these new chassis out there. There are some aero related things that have changed, and rear weight % is probably 5-6% less than it was, and right side is probably down 4-5 percent, and most are running the lift bar spring (5trh coil) back 3-6 inches less than they were 6 years ago. That is pretty much your modern $40,000 late model chassis vs one from 5 years ago. If I am wrong, tell me I am wrong. Also, the modern car bodies are tappered pretty much as much as the rules are allowed, and i mean the (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit is lower, the front end is more narrow, the right front nose piece has been move down as much as the dynamic roll will allow. If I did not work 50+hours a week driving a fuel truck, I would build "Bubba's Fast Ass Chassis". But since I am poor and work alot, I can only reach a few, and only a few of these will listen, most have drank the cool aid and they believe that only the people on tv can help them. Tell me that I am wrong.

  10. #30
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    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
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    Are you saying guys are running less than 50% left side weight?
    Droop isn't the problem.

    Arizona Speedway - 2
    Alltech -1
    East Bay - 6

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    1,079

    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdobberrr View Post
    Listen guys, I fancy myself a setup guy. I do not have alot of experience driving, I did drive a bomber car for 2 years, but I did not have time to work 50 hours a week and race, so 12 years ago I choose to concentrate on helping others with their cars. I feel that I am above average at observing a car of any class go around the track, and I also very much enjoy 3/4 link cars and discussing what makes them work. The first thing I noticed about the Longhorns/xr1's/later cvr'sl capitals was that they rolled the middle of the corner on the throttle MUCH better than the stuff before them. Since the late 1990's, the 4 bar stuff was extremely tight from the middle out. I the 1990's they were almost drag cars that raced twice per lap, on dirt. The newer stuff rolls the middle and out much better on the throttle, which can only be due to a few things............softter effective right front spring rate, and/or more rebound rate on the right front...........or less left rear drive, caused by less left rear drop as measured by total number of left rear drop in inches, or murch more left rear rebound rate, which causes the left rear to drop much more slowly as throttle is applied. Add to this the addition of right front bump stops, and one pretty much has the magic of all these new chassis out there. There are some aero related things that have changed, and rear weight % is probably 5-6% less than it was, and right side is probably down 4-5 percent, and most are running the lift bar spring (5trh coil) back 3-6 inches less than they were 6 years ago. That is pretty much your modern $40,000 late model chassis vs one from 5 years ago. If I am wrong, tell me I am wrong. Also, the modern car bodies are tappered pretty much as much as the rules are allowed, and i mean the (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit is lower, the front end is more narrow, the right front nose piece has been move down as much as the dynamic roll will allow. If I did not work 50+hours a week driving a fuel truck, I would build "Bubba's Fast Ass Chassis". But since I am poor and work alot, I can only reach a few, and only a few of these will listen, most have drank the cool aid and they believe that only the people on tv can help them. Tell me that I am wrong.
    Couple of problem here, the noses are wider then ever, the droop is more than ever and their actually running more right side weight than previous years

  12. #32
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,832

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    Thanks Jking24 on the "STD" bar positions, there are a couple things that XR1's do better than all the other cars out there, and i am trying to decode it and apply it to my situation.

    Leftside %, yes getting lower. I made that mistake the last couple years, to much and the car wont dig in on the right side. Plus these droop loads i am running now days are insane, i never would of thought to go that high...

    Rear % is another one, you would think higher % would be more traction, but really isnt, and it makes the car swing bad sometimes.

    The RF is really simple, but hard to get right. Soft to get in the corner faster, but stiff down in the travel to get off the corner well. The combo to get right is a pain, plus you have to drive it properly. I also think the LR load numbers are crucial, to the equation.

    Hunterracing, i think your on to something there, but have no actual testing to back it up. Using MBRs logic, closer to CL rod on BC gets more load, it would make since. Its something else i want to try. I believe it would be a way to keep the car in the proper posture, easier, the upper rod getting more load to keep the LR up, at all times.

    Just say no...

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    244

    Default pic

    i couldnt open the pic, ill pm you. send it to my email

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