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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,855

    Default Bump steer, Chevelle

    How much should i be targeting? Same as a SLM, bump out but not in?

    Also, do you check it at ride, or attitude or both?

    Just trying to get a handle on what people are doing, in my older Mod days we just ran the stock stuff, but it seems nowadays there are many options. Adjustable center links, and idler arms etc. I like the idea of replacing them stock inner tie rods with something adjustable.

    Thanks, Krom

    Just say no...

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kromulous View Post
    How much should i be targeting? Same as a SLM, bump out but not in?

    Also, do you check it at ride, or attitude or both?

    Just trying to get a handle on what people are doing, in my older Mod days we just ran the stock stuff, but it seems nowadays there are many options. Adjustable center links, and idler arms etc. I like the idea of replacing them stock inner tie rods with something adjustable.

    Thanks, Krom
    FWIW...We run heims inboard and outboard. 1/4" spacer between RF spindle and tie rod, 3/4" on LF. I have not measured that but is recommendation from our chassis builder for 3 piece spindles.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,855

    Default

    Thanks Outlaw, heims on top or bottom on steering arm? Our car strange enough, but they are on top, i keep worrying about the tie rod hitting the frame. I do have the dropped tie rod, outpace i think, and stock inner tie rods, but i want to convert it over to a heims on both ends, and the aftermarket drag link, adjustable.

    When i get time this Winter i will run it thru some checks at ride and in posture, and see what it is.
    Last edited by Kromulous; 10-15-2020 at 08:39 PM.

    Just say no...

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kromulous View Post
    Thanks Outlaw, heims on top or bottom on steering arm? Our car strange enough, but they are on top, i keep worrying about the tie rod hitting the frame. I do have the dropped tie rod, outpace i think, and stock inner tie rods, but i want to convert it over to a heims on both ends, and the aftermarket drag link, adjustable.

    When i get time this Winter i will run it thru some checks at ride and in posture, and see what it is.
    Bottom of the Arm with the spacer between the arm and heim. We also use the extreme clearance outpace rod. We cant use the adjustable link.

    We also just drill out the steering arm for 5/8, then use a bolt.
    Last edited by outlaw4j; 10-19-2020 at 07:53 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    DeWitt IA
    Posts
    267

    Default

    try and set the bump for a littlie as possible but make sure if you have a change in the bump it is adding toe out in that wheel. As for checking it best to use the setup up plates I build and then put the chassis in dynamics . When you use the setup plates and use floor jacks to put the chassis in dynamics that will let the chassis move as if it is on the track. remove the RF spring please . On most rf corners of the chassis the frame moves down ,forward, and to the left so then all the pick up points end up moving aswell changing the settings in the front end. and make sure to put chassis hike in the LR.

  6. #6

    Default

    Now the car market is quite unstable but I still want to catch a car at an auction in the United States. First, I check the car through the vin report free service to understand whether it was involved in an accident, how many owners there were, what changes were made to the configuration, whether there are restrictions on registration actions, whether the car is pledged or stolen
    Last edited by Lovandosovich11; 12-24-2020 at 06:13 AM. Reason: decided to add text

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    3,782

    Default

    The stock centerlinks on those cars were terrible for bumpsteer.We would usually cut them apart and move out the inner mounts to closely line up with the lca inner mount. Then with heims on the outer, it was easy to get it right.(spacers on the bottom )

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    270

    Default

    I would measure Ackerman as much as bump. Too many people ignore Ackerman, but I've seen it cause more problems than bump steer. I've always used the Sweet System for measuring rather than using the number of degrees. This will actually show you toe out gain or loss as your tire turn. Some interesting things may come to light as you start putting these two things together.
    We always Ackerman increased when steering to the left and no increase to the right. We tried to bump the RF to zero and the left front out ⅛ to . If I had to pick one thing to check over another, it would always be Ackerman. It does way more to the car than bump; unless the bump is out of control and way far off.

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