Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 27 of 27
  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,541

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by matt_s86 View Post
    A friend sent me a sheet which appears to have come straight from them. Maybe I've misinterpreted it. "Extended load: 24.00" C-C 200# LoadAdd turns to top coil over nut to add extended load or take turns out to take away extented load. 150# will free the car up and we go up 250# to tighten up"
    The way I read that "turns to top nut", you are basically adding static LR bite. Which in general terms would be correct add wedge to tighten car and remove to loosen car - talking on throttle adjustment.

    Sounds like they are describing a STD single spring, stack spring with no stop nuts or a digressive stack, all which adjusting the top nut will raise static bite.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Many smart people that I have talked setup with seem to miss the fact that if the lr is on the chain, no amount of adding bar angle or extended load to the lr will matter to the car at that point. If you want to add left rear drive/and decel wedge, add it by raising the rf ride height 1/2 of an inch. This adjustment adds lr drive even if the lr is on the chain at the point where you need more lr drive. A very similar adjustment would be to lengthen the lr chain 1/2 inch. This assumes that your lr shock(s) will allow the lr to travel another 1/2 inch. Wedge adjustments and adding or subtracting drive from a rear wheel are both adjustments that work for anything from a bomber car to a Cup Car.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    1,079

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdobberrr View Post
    Many smart people that I have talked setup with seem to miss the fact that if the lr is on the chain, no amount of adding bar angle or extended load to the lr will matter to the car at that point. If you want to add left rear drive/and decel wedge, add it by raising the rf ride height 1/2 of an inch. This adjustment adds lr drive even if the lr is on the chain at the point where you need more lr drive. A very similar adjustment would be to lengthen the lr chain 1/2 inch. This assumes that your lr shock(s) will allow the lr to travel another 1/2 inch. Wedge adjustments and adding or subtracting drive from a rear wheel are both adjustments that work for anything from a bomber car to a Cup Car.
    While you are correct most people who are chasing lr drive are generally looking in the wrong area. They are usually to tight across the center witch induces their loose exit. Adding to the rf will make the car tighter everywhere when on fuel and especially at initial throttle pickup in our before center

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    108

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by matt_s86 View Post
    A friend sent me a sheet which appears to have come straight from them. Maybe I've misinterpreted it. "Extended load: 24.00" C-C 200# LoadAdd turns to top coil over nut to add extended load or take turns out to take away extented load. 150# will free the car up and we go up 250# to tighten up"
    I also received the same sheet. Robbie at rocket emailed it to me.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    108

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdobberrr View Post
    Many smart people that I have talked setup with seem to miss the fact that if the lr is on the chain, no amount of adding bar angle or extended load to the lr will matter to the car at that point. If you want to add left rear drive/and decel wedge, add it by raising the rf ride height 1/2 of an inch. This adjustment adds lr drive even if the lr is on the chain at the point where you need more lr drive. A very similar adjustment would be to lengthen the lr chain 1/2 inch. This assumes that your lr shock(s) will allow the lr to travel another 1/2 inch. Wedge adjustments and adding or subtracting drive from a rear wheel are both adjustments that work for anything from a bomber car to a Cup Car.
    So what youíre saying is, if the car is indeed balanced well and just need a little more drive off the corner, adding extended load wonít add drive because of the chain limiter? Not arguing, just trying to understand because I had never given that a thought.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    11,416

    Default

    When your chain is tight, all up and down forces are balanced. All that's left is the weight on the lr. Most people don't have a tight chain all the way around the track, however.
    Droop isn't the problem.

    Arizona Speedway - 2
    Alltech -1
    East Bay - 6

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    387

    Default

    If you can't get to the static/extended load you want or need ,a longer spring is necessary most likely if a single 75#. Buy a quality spring!

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0
Copyright © 2021 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.