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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,119

    Default Used Ohlins shocks... what to look for.

    While I'm recovering from my latest knee replacement surgery I've been thinking about testing the used shock waters and looking for a few Ohlins that may match my budget.

    I've looked a a couple shocks... looked pretty rough IMHO.

    I like the piggyback's for the front but I would imagine those aren't necessary.

    I have a local shock guy that can redo anything... he's done my twin tubes and sells Ohlins and others.

    Might even buy a couple new front shocks and use my fresh AFCO's for the rear until I can afford better.

    Ideas?
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
    Class of 2019

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    13,615

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Krooser View Post
    While I'm recovering from my latest knee replacement surgery I've been thinking about testing the used shock waters and looking for a few Ohlins that may match my budget.

    I've looked a a couple shocks... looked pretty rough IMHO.

    I like the piggyback's for the front but I would imagine those aren't necessary.

    I have a local shock guy that can redo anything... he's done my twin tubes and sells Ohlins and others.

    Might even buy a couple new front shocks and use my fresh AFCO's for the rear until I can afford better.

    Ideas?
    You want to make sure you get straight shafts and no dents on canisters or body. Ohlins parts are not cheap! I like the shocks though.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -1

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,119

    Default

    I looked at a set last week... never saw anything so beat up.
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
    Class of 2019

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    13,615

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Krooser View Post
    I looked at a set last week... never saw anything so beat up.
    I got burned on a set last year. Didn't look too bad, but they were. Lol. I wound up with more in them than a really nice used set.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -1

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,119

    Default

    I bought a dozen Afco's for $80.00 a few years ago. I had six or so rebuilt/revalved and sold the remainder for parts. That deal worked good.

    One of our members here has a nice set ready to go off of a Mastersbilt but Im limping around my place after a knee replacement... Not the right time.
    Last edited by Krooser; 11-23-2020 at 02:53 PM.
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
    Class of 2019

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    5,197

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Krooser View Post
    I bought a dozen Afco's for $80.00 a few years ago. I had six or so rebuilt/revalved and sold the remainder for parts. That deal worked good.

    One of our members here has a nice set ready to go off of a Mastersbilt but Im limping around my place after a knee replacement... Not the right time.
    You better tighten up.......aren't you Taders new house car driver?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    829

    Default

    Ask for dyno sheets, If they can't produce them and are current assume they need rebuilt and add that to the cost of the deal and compare to buying new. Around here people are stupid with pricing on used stuff and after having them rebuilt, often end upside down.
    Example,
    Used QA1 26 or 52 series stuff sells for $80 each around here, My shock guy charges $60 each and if it needs a piston or shaft or something that your into it more than the $160 from QA1 price tag.

  8. #8

    Default

    Krooser, check your PM. Thanks

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,119

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ZERO25 View Post
    You better tighten up.......aren't you Taders new house car driver?
    Yep... I' m running for Tader's Bar, Grill and Casino out of Waxahachie, TX. Liquor in the front- Poker in the rear.
    Member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame
    Class of 2019

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    307

    Default

    The best thing you can do is go with the piggyback all the way around if you can fit them in. Anytime you stick a hose on there, you risk hysteresis. Olins are the best I've seen on solving this problem with a hose, but avoid the problem totally by going piggyback.
    The shafts are tough as nails, nicks and gouges are rare, but it does happen from time to time.
    Years ago, LMJs were at about $400 apiece. Anything under that and you're probably getting a decent deal if they are straight and useable.

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