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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,832

    Default QA1 Lower Ball Joints?

    I am using https://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-1...-In,57586.html with the Speedway 3 piece metric, short arm spindles.

    I cant get enough threads to stick thru the spindle to get a cotter key thru, does QA1 make a stud with extended threads? or am in using the wrong lower ball joint?

    Thanks, Krom

    Just say no...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    201

    Default

    You'll either need to ream it or change the ball joint. Those spindle bodies can be bought in a couple different configurations for what ball joint you plan to run.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    692

    Default

    I don't mess with Cotter keys. BUT....I also check them every week as part of the maintenance. If you have full thread engagement of the castle nut, and you like the car as is, just check them every night/week.
    You can also mill some off the top of the lower ball joint boss. To far will weaken it and risk a break.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,832

    Default

    I know with Howe Ball joints they made a screw in, 7 degree with extend threads for this use. Guessing QA1 doesnt yet.

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    692

    Default

    Wait a minute, the 1210-102 is a 10' stud, not 7 degree. 3.848 long

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,832

    Default

    Good catch, i think i need to swith to this one QA1 1210-106 K727 Lower Ball Joint, Steel Cap, Screw-In

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  7. #7

    Default

    Had same issue on a friend's modified

    Spindle needs to be reamed (2" taper) for the 1210-102 to fit that spindle.

    Or, if you want to use the spindle without reaming, the 1210-109 fits it, but it's a press-in housing and the stud in it does not fit in the large screw-in housing style.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,832

    Default

    LOL i got the measurements from QA1, they sent me a pdf of all the ball joints.

    Anyway, this car we bought had a 1210-508 on the LF, and it has the right taper and thread, but in a screw in housing. Which the QA1 sheet says its a push in. So someone has done some mis-matching.

    So i ordered a couple new studs, 9029-226, and i am going to compare that one to the 9026-223 in the -102 screw in ball joint and see how it compares.

    Just say no...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,832

    Default

    Also if you ream it a good portion, it will lower the spindles pin or axle to the pivot point relationship correct?

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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    692

    Default

    Correct,
    Making the hole bigger, means the stud/pin will go further into the hole.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,832

    Default

    9029-226 is .500 longer than the -223 (ball to taper), sits in the spindle nicely, and has long enough threads for the nut.

    Now to figure out if i want the extra 1/2"

    Just say no...

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