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Thread: XR1 vs B/G

  1. #1
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    Default XR1 vs B/G

    When trying to decide to buy a car last year, we ran into Mark at a race and asked his opinion on a car for a 602 class. He said "the xr1 will be better, because it rolls easier". Anyone know the why?

  2. #2
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    I'd say he's talking about driveshaft alignment at race attitude.
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    Is the crossmember higher?

    I know the rf spring is quite a bit softer, so im assuming theres more travel before it gets into the bump too hard.

    What about length of j-bar?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZERO25 View Post
    Is the crossmember higher?

    I know the rf spring is quite a bit softer, so im assuming theres more travel before it gets into the bump too hard.

    What about length of j-bar?
    I don't think those things address rolling resistance.
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  5. #5
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    Ever think it’s because he’s in the making money business? Lol

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    you may be onto something noitall , he is probably selling more cars to crate racers than super,s right now.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View Post
    I don't think those things address rolling resistance.
    Do you think he was referring to resistance?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZERO25 View Post
    Do you think he was referring to resistance?
    That was my understanding of "rolls easier". Knowing that newer cars have different engine to rear end alignment, it makes sense.
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  9. #9
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    If you can afford an XR1, get one of them. They are already in production for 5 years. I switched to an XR1 last year and it was better than my Orange/blue-gray hybrid. The crossmember never dragged on the race track. No need to waste on an older car unless money is an issue

  10. #10
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    "rolls easier"......to me it means that the load on the rf and the lr lets the car turn easier. This modern stuff seams to not be as tight on entry to the middle. This means that either the right front is softer, or has more travel.....or maybe the left rear shock has MUCH more rebound(slower lr load, think about it). Most will not reply to this. Some of them have paid for the setup......most of them do not yet fully understand the setup. If you are truly capable of watching a car, and truly capable of understanding what the car needs, then you could be your own chassis company. Free entry and being able to roll the middle of the turn are the key. If the car is tight from middle out...add rebound to the rr until the car is no longer too tight on exit. The last sentence is copied from Johnny the Jet Saathoff.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdobberrr View Post
    "rolls easier"......to me it means that the load on the rf and the lr lets the car turn easier. This modern stuff seams to not be as tight on entry to the middle. This means that either the right front is softer, or has more travel.....or maybe the left rear shock has MUCH more rebound(slower lr load, think about it). Most will not reply to this. Some of them have paid for the setup......most of them do not yet fully understand the setup. If you are truly capable of watching a car, and truly capable of understanding what the car needs, then you could be your own chassis company. Free entry and being able to roll the middle of the turn are the key. If the car is tight from middle out...add rebound to the rr until the car is no longer too tight on exit. The last sentence is copied from Johnny the Jet Saathoff.
    Much of this post scares me. Less rf spring rate tightens entry, adding rr rebound generally tightens middle and exit

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRocket8 View Post
    If you can afford an XR1, get one of them. They are already in production for 5 years. I switched to an XR1 last year and it was better than my Orange/blue-gray hybrid. The crossmember never dragged on the race track. No need to waste on an older car unless money is an issue
    What was better about the xr1?

    Were racing for $600 weekly (crate), kinda hard to justify 20-30k for a roller!

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    You don't have to spend 20-30k on a xr1 good used cars can be had all day long for less than 20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jking24 View Post
    You don't have to spend 20-30k on a xr1 good used cars can be had all day long for less than 20
    Not in my area, very few xr1's. We looked for 6 months!

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZERO25 View Post
    What was better about the xr1?

    Were racing for $600 weekly (crate), kinda hard to justify 20-30k for a roller!
    Does anyone really count the weekly payout To justify your racing budget? Unless you’re winning series races on a weekly basis, the payout might cover your fuel and some of the tires you used... sorry, comparing payout to your budget for a car never made sense to me. We are all spending wayyyy more than we make in racing

    Back to the topic, I’ve seen fast XR1’s and fast B/G Rockets here in PA. Setup and driver will make them both winners or losers

  16. #16
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    Some people do actually have spending restraint and try to make their hobby make sense.
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    Im not gonna get into the budget debate but. I will say this i personally feel xr's being a more ridged chassis and being built from a higher quality material last far longer than a b/g chassis. We have a 17' that has been raced 20-30 races a season in super limited and crate and we have yet to strike a arc on it. The same cannot be said for most bg cars

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer View Post
    Some people do actually have spending restraint and try to make their hobby make sense.
    Esp with a newbie behind the wheel! lol

    Raced 8 times, wrecked 6 times. A couple technically wasnt his fault, but you gotta pay attention and know who you can race with!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jking24 View Post
    Im not gonna get into the budget debate but. I will say this i personally feel xr's being a more ridged chassis and being built from a higher quality material last far longer than a b/g chassis. We have a 17' that has been raced 20-30 races a season in super limited and crate and we have yet to strike a arc on it. The same cannot be said for most bg cars
    I'd say that's true, if you keep from bending it. Even the stiffening helps a lot. We have an 03 Masters that we converted to something pretty modern. That includes stiffening the front and back considerably. It had almost no races on it before the conversion (guessing maybe 10), and it was stored inside. We made it over 100 races before the tail section broke at the j bar mount, where they are known to break pretty early. It was amazing how bad the car became, when it happened too.
    Last edited by MasterSbilt_Racer; 02-21-2021 at 03:22 AM.
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