|
|
-
rf brake
I want to make right front brake work very very little. Our rules say no shut off. Any suggestions?
-
 Originally Posted by brett4
I want to make right front brake work very very little. Our rules say no shut off. Any suggestions?
Does it also say no proportioning valves on RF?
-
Vado - 2
Modern Day Wedge Racing
-
all pistons must be the same size and no proportioning valves
-
-
 Originally Posted by brett4
all pistons must be the same size and no proportioning valves
You think they will actually look?
1) smaller rotor diameter on rf
2) rf on it's own master cylinder, other 3 wheels on the other one. Put huge supply line on the rf.
3) lower coefficient of friction pad material on rf, or more friction on other 3 corners.
Vado - 2
Modern Day Wedge Racing
-
yep had to pull off front calipers 3 times in 2022!!....I was thinking of putting -6 flex line on rf
-
 Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
You think they will actually look?
1) smaller rotor diameter on rf
2) rf on it's own master cylinder, other 3 wheels on the other one. Put huge supply line on the rf.
3) lower coefficient of friction pad material on rf, or more friction on other 3 corners.
Too add to that:
I assume it says you have to have a caliper, so not running one likely isn't an option but does it say it has to be same caliper? meaning can you use a single piston caliper of the same piston size or anything with the same piston size yet with much reduced clamping force?
Instead of #2 you can tee off the clutch line and put a ball valve, that way it doesn't work but can turn back on for tech to show brake works. Obviously this could be dangerous if you forget and apply the clutch and car wants to dart right and with a ball valve is not allowed. However a guy could wire up a electric shut off with a clutch switch to pedal and sort of make this automatic and be under the dash where they wouldn't look for one. Then just flip switch off for tech.
Obviously a smaller OD rotor and getting with a brake manufacturer for a less grabby pad would be the simpler solutions, if you can't do the less clamping force caliper above.
If you meant using a 6 line that expanded, it will make the LF spongy also and likely defeat the purpose.
Last edited by billetbirdcage; 01-16-2023 at 04:17 PM.
-

Billet hasn't changed one bit
-
-
Electric or ball valve inside (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit after T. They ain't gonna remove seat to trace a line or follow thru hidden compartment on firewall
-
 Originally Posted by Punisher88
Kink the line. Lol
that could act as a check valve , we just put a small nail in the line where it bolts to the caliper , but if tech jacks it up to see if it works , then your screwed , never had that happen though , they just looked every thing over and that was it .....
-
-
Remove some if the pad on the RF, remove the pad material from the middle to pass visual inspection and wheel spin test.
Even if they removed the caliper, it's unlikely to be noticed.
Dip the RF pads in brake fluid and let it soak in a while. The next heat cycle will glaze them really badly.
Ball bearing and spring under the brake hose AN fitting acts a pressure sensitive check valve. A slow light push shows everything works perfectly. A litte harder and faster and the ball and spring close and prevent the some or most of the fluid from moving.
-
We have used a small head rivet, we used a solid one but you can drill it out to any size, installed in the fitting between the brake line and frame mount.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:06 AM.
|
|
Bookmarks