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  1. #1
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    Jul 2013
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    Default Dry Sump Engine - Race Day Priming

    Technically a powertrain question, but thinking it'll get more attention here:

    I make a habit of turning my engine over (no ignition) to "prime" the oil system before I start it. Will crank it in 10 second intervals (roughly), and usually by the third time will see the oil pressure begin to come up (then I'll start it). The latest engine I have seems to be taking much longer to build oil pressure as compared to others in the past (same make of pump and general configuration of lines, etc). Pressures when running (idle and under throttle) are fine.

    There are a couple differences with this engine:
    1) I used to use the Fram HP6 filter, but having sold my old system, I'm currently using a Wix
    2) The pressure line runs into the front of the block, whereas my other engines fed into the back/lower left

    I'm also wondering if/how the "height" of the oil filter (with relation to the engine) could/might affect this?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Kansas
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    1,940

    Default

    what filter you using?

    51060 - has anti-drain valve, 9-11 gpm, 21 micron
    51061 - no anti-drain back valve, 9-11 gpm, 21 micron
    51061R - no anti-drain back valve, 28 gpm, 60 micron

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    697

    Default

    Better plan is to get one of the Peterson priming filter housings, takes just a few seconds with a drill and you do not spin engine over 'dry'.

  4. #4
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    thedirtysouth
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    Default

    never had a problem with a dry sump , I use a motorcraft 7.3 ford diesel filter and no priming , by the time it fires there is oil pressure , on our wet sump with external pump , I would spin it first but only at the first start of the night .

  5. #5
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    Default

    Filter is a Wix 57007R, which has the larger inlet but apparently no anti-drain back valve. And maybe the inlet size shouldn't matter as the pressure hose is an AN-12 anyways. I'll admit I am an idiot at times...purchased a used filter mount knowing it had the larger inlet, even went as far as to fill the Fram filter with oil, then upon trying to install it realized there are two different thread pitches for that inlet size (and Fram does not make one, that I've seen).

    @ Fastford, are you saying you see oil pressure on the gauge when it fires? Just curious.

  6. #6
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    Dec 2008
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    thedirtysouth
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    yes I do , the filter I use has a check valve , If you are pulling air back into your pump , it will airate until it pulls oil from tank .

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    213

    Default

    Where is your gauge getting its reading from? When you changed to the front inlet for oil is the gauge outlet now farther away then when the oil was feed in from the back. Never had any dealings with a Chevrolet but on a Dodge the outlet in the block for the gauge is the first thing the oil gets to when entering the block from the stock filter location. If feeding from the front china wall the gauge is the last thing the oil gets too. Depending on little things like valve spring oilers and piston squirters and such you can have between 100 and 140 controlled oil leaks to overcome before pressure builds. I agree my Peterson priming housing was money well spent for the added insurance. Even spinning one over with no ignition still has the pressure of compressing air to 15-1 pushing down on dry bearings.
    Last edited by Mopar DLM; 10-18-2023 at 10:34 AM.

  8. #8
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    ^^^ Gauge is still reading from the back of the block, and I didn't even think about that, And yes, I like the idea of the Peterson set-up but haven't heard of many guys using it, which led me to believe it might not be worth the money. That requires a separate feed to the filter housing, correct?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    1,380

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TheJet-09 View Post
    ^^^ Gauge is still reading from the back of the block, and I didn't even think about that, And yes, I like the idea of the Peterson set-up but haven't heard of many guys using it, which led me to believe it might not be worth the money. That requires a separate feed to the filter housing, correct?
    peterson deal works outstanding, love it no dry starts

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Kansas
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    Default

    Many newer dry sump tanks have a smaller #8 or #10 fitting in them to hook up the primer too.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    213

    Default

    Even on our dry sump engine we have used the drain plug in the oil pan to feed the primer. Even on a brand new engine you pour 3-4 quarts in the pan and if your filter is already full its enough for the primer to build pressure. After its been run it always has enough drain back to prime the next time. Even if its only enough for 10 PSI you know that everything has oil to it. We usually prime it till we don't hear air bleeding out of the valve spring oilers anymore. Harbor Freight rechargeable drill on low speed will hold 70 PSI. High speed lugs too much and shuts off the drill.

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