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Imca stock car
Which is better powerglide or 3 speed? I got to buy the whole set up either way? Who makes the best powerglide?
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Automatics is Phipps or Bushore. As the preference to each his own. I prefer muncies or saginaws.....seem to last longer! Autos need freshed must faster and the bellhousings crack/break well before 3 speeds. Your preference or where you can find the better deal!
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Auto is faster and more power to the ground, but manuals are more reliable over the long haul for sure.
I have all the manual stuff youll need if your willing to pay some shipping. bell, lw saginaw, single disc clutch and hyd brg all 3 nights old...
Ive got adds in the for sale section. Im running auto trans now.
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mitchell machine makes a two speed that is lighter that glide and less rotating weight.
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Originally Posted by racingford
mitchell machine makes a two speed that is lighter that glide and less rotating weight.
Had one of mitchells trannys just a lightened 3 speed in a alum case that doesnt crack as easily.
CLEARLY no where near as light on rotating than a glide.
Sorry Ive had every manual available over the years and chassis dyno my stuff, I switch and have been selling all my manual stuff. Glides are the best for throttle response and rotating so long as you have to run a clutch even a 5.5" one.
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If you choose an automatic, I'd say get a Bushore. We've run them for 6+ years with no problems.
http://www.bushoreracing.com/
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stock car, I thought u was always againts autos. I remember u talkin bout all they done was tore up an broke cases. and the story about the guy beside u changing them in the pits. so has this changed now
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Originally Posted by 4bangerhotrod
stock car, I thought u was always againts autos. I remember u talkin bout all they done was tore up an broke cases. and the story about the guy beside u changing them in the pits. so has this changed now
yep its changed.
faster is faster
Im a idiot for running manual trans since 1993.
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A Richmond two speed, with a 5.5 carbon fiber triple as a second choice, otherwise a Brinn or Falcon is the best street stock tranny.
A M&R drop out Saginaw works well also
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Hey Jeff.Did you chassis dyno an auto verse a manual? Our rules state that you have to run a gm flywheel and a oem pressure plate.The lightest i have found was a gm flywheel.I cant remember if it was 15 or 17 lbs.For autos, you have to run a oem tranny 400, 350, glide, etc, with a functioning converter.Do you still think the its worth changing the saginaw out with a glide if i have to run a functioning converter.I know you can get some low stall ,tight ones, but just wanted to get your opinion.
Thanks Jeff.
Last edited by turner; 03-01-2011 at 09:48 PM.
Reason: Spelling
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Originally Posted by turner
Hey Jeff.Did you chassis dyno an auto verse a manual? Our rules state that you have to run a gm flywheel and a oem pressure plate.The lightest i have found was a gm flywheel.I cant remember if it was 15 or 17 lbs.For autos, you have to run a oem tranny 400, 350, glide, etc, with a functioning converter.Do you still think the its worth changing the saginaw out with a glide if i have to run a functioning converter.I know you can get some low stall ,tight ones, but just wanted to get your opinion.
Thanks Jeff.
I did chassis dyno. glide is better.
I would think a glide with a dummy converter and a quart or two of fluid in it would be the best for you. much better than oem clutch type stuff. i know for a fact on the chassis dyno even the glide with dummy beats a saginaw and oem type clutch.
richmond 2 speed.... I have one for sale. can run in low or hi, 1.03 1.00 ratios...
mr dropout is a copy of the one in kansas i ran 6 years ago for a few years......
Any other manual ideas??? Like I said Ive ran them ALL for oem type rules.
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TcI Circlematic direct drive with coupler..wins . easily the best for performance.
Lightened Richmond Hi/LO 3spd with nice light mini clutch for durability.
For the price and the use, TCI circlematic is the best in my opinion.
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We ran coupled glides for quite some time, but what we found out was that under heavy braking, when you lock up the rear wheels for whatever reason, it kills the motor, and by the time you get it re fired pushing the button, you are lucky if you only lost 2 positions or so
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Originally Posted by hogracer3d
We ran coupled glides for quite some time, but what we found out was that under heavy braking, when you lock up the rear wheels for whatever reason, it kills the motor, and by the time you get it re fired pushing the button, you are lucky if you only lost 2 positions or so
Thats about the same as locking up the rear wheels with a manual...
Maybe the hired driver you have now is better at brake control than the one who had the issues?
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when you let back off the brake the manual trans will refire the engine, the auto with a functioning converter will not
5.5 carbon clutch ? are you effing kidding me !?! thats a $4,000 dollar clutch... in a street stock, yeah, i think your talking about .05% of stockers have one of those
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Thanks for the info guys.Think i will start the season with what i have, and look into the other auto options soon.
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Originally Posted by bushracing67
when you let back off the brake the manual trans will refire the engine, the auto with a functioning converter will not
5.5 carbon clutch ? are you effing kidding me !?! thats a $4,000 dollar clutch... in a street stock, yeah, i think your talking about .05% of stockers have one of those
Yeah I guess thats true with a manual, only time Ive killed a motor is getting heat into my brakes before the racing starts so I havent paid that much attention to it.
jj
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i have had issues stalling the motor with the breaks, when running the late model tires makes the car so much harder to turn that i have stalled it trying to set the car, sometimes on a tacky track i would crank the breaks all the way to the front and stand on the break and the throttle to set the car (sounds ridiculous, but it got me thru the corner faster than stalling and chugaluging back up to speed after it happened)
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I have no hired driver, he drives for tips.........
but when a lapper (such as yourself) causes you to check up, the stalling is real, just as 67 confirmed.........
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Originally Posted by hogracer3d
I have no hired driver, he drives for tips.........
but when a lapper (such as yourself) causes you to check up, the stalling is real, just as 67 confirmed.........
bahahaha, as if youve ever raced against me, hot shot, not to mention its not actually you RACING its your hired driver, lol... Jeez maybe I should send Bloomquist a grand so then I can CLAIM to be part of the team and post on forums about what WE do, lol..
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