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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    1,690

    Default 2.3L ford head info...

    I have used the same head for 5 seasons now & need to upgrade for 2012. Been using a hyd. .420 lift/.260 dur. cam D9 ovalport head, oversize valves, milled .100, turns 6700 & floats the valves! Header or OEM manifold doesnt matter, just gets there quicker w/ header. I need to get to low 7 range. I have a untouched OEM roller head, so I'm wondering, which head should I rebuild & how do I do it without breaking the bank? Ive heard guys claim they just mill the head & swap the cam & springs, and clean & reuse the other components. Need some ideas. Going on a rebuilt stock rod/crank 2.3 w/.030 flat top pistons that will probably never see 7500 RPMs. Thanks for any help.

  2. #2

    Default

    I would keep the head you are using.OS valves,already milled.You could up grade to a more agressive hyd cam or convert to solid.The valve float is all valve spring,a little more seat pressure and the setup you have would probably run well over 7000.We ran a Comp 280H cam to around 8200 with Crane valve springs.Never any problems.If your rules allow and your wallet is deep,a high lift roller set up would be the ultimate way to go.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Thurston, OH
    Posts
    915

    Default

    x 2! Contact Schneider Cams in San Diego, CA. Their roller grinds are much cheaper than Esslinger's grinds. Or once were. Freshen up your existing head with the big valves & solid studs. Further mod the head (port work?) if the budget will stand it. Then have the head flowed on a bench. Let's assume the intake head flow goes 'flat' @ .400" intake valve lift. You'd want to use a roller cam, or flat-follower cam, whose NET lift was at least .500". That would provide decent 'area under the curve' for racing. Schneider also grinds very good flat-follower cams. And they offer (6) different lobe heights for their cam grinds. So one can place the net lift where it needs to be. -Dave-

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    1,690

    Default

    The wallet isnt deep! Trying to just get a bit more out of it for next season. Thanks for the info.

    Just wondering if OEM 302 (V8) springs will fit in the 2.3L head while having more seat pressure? One of those things I heard & didnt know if it was true. I can get all those springs I want for nothing!
    Last edited by Dirtman29; 12-05-2011 at 03:24 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    233

    Default

    Don't rig it. 2300 valve springs from pbm are $45.00.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    1,338

    Default

    If you have aftermarket valves they could possibly have different retainers and locks. The stock type valves have 4 lock grooves while most others have 2 then it is possible that you can use Chevy springs Many guys have used the Z28 springs with good luck but best thing is to have the machinist look and tell you what to get. Also if you change the cam you may not be able to get away with stock height valves either.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, Tn.
    Posts
    74

    Default

    Ford 360 ci spring can work. Used them on 420, to 510 lift hydrolic cams with no problem.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    1,690

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Headhunter View Post
    If you have aftermarket valves they could possibly have different retainers and locks. The stock type valves have 4 lock grooves while most others have 2 then it is possible that you can use Chevy springs Many guys have used the Z28 springs with good luck but best thing is to have the machinist look and tell you what to get. Also if you change the cam you may not be able to get away with stock height valves either.
    It has Manley 1.89/1.59 valves in it, but when I had it apart last (prior to '09 season) they were starting to pit a little bit, I know it needs new valves.

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