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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    6

    Default mustang differential 7.5 Locked or open

    I have a 7.5 rear whats better
    welded or open or l/s
    Im welded now but the car is pushing real hard. im running 3+ stagger to get around the track
    I have to about drifft the car around or it pushes
    would running a 7.5 open cause a one wheel issue ?
    what are most running. Im on a 4/10 high bank turns ,asphalt
    mustang mini

  2. #2

    Default mustang differential 7.5 Locked or open

    Quote Originally Posted by Ncmustang84 View Post
    I have a 7.5 rear whats better
    welded or open or l/s
    Im welded now but the car is pushing real hard. im running 3+ stagger to get around the track
    I have to about drifft the car around or it pushes
    would running a 7.5 open cause a one wheel issue ?
    what are most running. Im on a 4/10 high bank turns ,asphalt
    mustang mini

    never ran on asphalt before,,but i would say not locked would better than being locked for dirt

  3. #3

    Default

    You have to run a locked rear! Your problem is set-up.With 3in.stagger you should be ass loose all the time.You will probably need more rf spring,or less left rear or both.Talk to some of the racers you race with,find out what spring rates they are using,set up tricks.Most will be glad to help,listen carefully take that info home and apply it to your car.Guarantee you will get faster!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    7

    Default

    what kind of front stagger do you have? i have 1" in rear and 1/4" in front for 1/3rd mile high banked oval. sounds like too much body roll try a zip tie on rf strut push it down to the bottem before you race and check it when you come off if its at the very top then chances are you have too much body roll. if your track is like mine" purestock" then try front springs out of a 91 convertable they are about 75 lbs heavier(spring rate)...also measure your ride height if you were like me i was to high and cut about 2" off all springs to lower the car as long as both front are the same and both rear are the same ...check rules for ride height and see what you can do. my car might be lacking hp but it turns like its on rails...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    6

    Default

    freedom66 is your real open or locked?

    thanks for all the tips guys heres what im set up so far
    lf 800 lbs rf 850
    lr 175 rr 225 with rubber
    now have a open rear and im putting new shocks and struts in the moring


    I was running stagger around 1/2 to 1" in the front and 1-3/4 to 3" in the rear
    little sway bar.
    the car is 4-1/4 height on the driver frame rail about 1/2 1" height on the right side
    springs have been cut weight jackers to make up height in the front
    no jacker in the rear. I'll try the zip tie trick
    Do you guy use chains to keep the rear height down?
    This is my first year at racing at all. so far im able to stay on the lead lap but not making any records.
    If i can get this car to handle a little better life would be good. i got the hp but but riding like a dump truck.

  6. #6

    Default

    NC You have to lock the rear.The car will never turn till both rear tires are pulling through the corners.After you lock the rear swap the rear springs,heavy spring goes on the left side providing cross weight to the right front.Then your stagger will take effect and let the car rotate through the corners.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    7

    Default

    nc im welded. try front springs from 91 convertable they rate a about 925 or 950 cant remember. also try cutting 3/4"off both sides of your stabilizer tubes will help in turning tighten the right side and have the left side snug. what kind of tire rule do you have and are you runnin

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    4

    Default 7.5 lock or open

    I've always been told it has to be lock your car goes into turn &with weight transfer is dependent on right side drive & as the car at mid turn starts to make its exit it is more dependent on the left to drive it out. If that makes any sense. Lol springs & wheel offset is a big factor for a push IMO ....

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
    Posts
    1,579

    Default

    your front springs are way too stiff...and your stiffest spring in the rear should be on the left(assuming this is asphalt)

    My conventional setup is:

    LF-500 RF-550
    LR-200 RR-150

    My current setup is(more to that story later):

    LF-175 RF-175
    LR-150 RR-150
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    1,338

    Default

    Plus by cutting the springs he increased the rate of the spring even more. 2" off a 850 ? Rough guess 1250 ppi.

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