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Originally Posted by kevan3x
i also had major problems with r2c this year had good luck with one first year this year cyl. was worn bad , never had had problem with k&n type had same block 6 years with out reboring but this one lasted 1
I find it hard to believe that the filter caused the wear. I would like to think that you would have taken the time to check your filter and carb for signs of dirt.
My sarcasm is a pre-emptive strike to your stupidity!!
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Originally Posted by let-r-eat
I'm an old fashioned tech neck when it comes to filters. Someone a bunch smarter than I said once while talking about air filters why this such and such filter was so clean after a race on such a dusty track? Smart wise man said, "Filter not filtering." When I look at a filter this always sticks in my mind. What does a filter do with what it filters?The best filter will not be good for HP nor will the worst filter be good for durability. Compromise.Nothing against the R2c or K^N or other filters but I'm old fashioned a go with the old tried and true. Paper. HP is likely not the biggest factor in winning the race anyway.
I had dirty venturis when I ran paper, even with grease on the top and bottom.
R2C holds the dirt, click on the video I posted above.
ANYONE claiming to have issues with dirt in their motor with a R2C needs to look at what THEY have done and how THEY have it installed, its not the filter letting the dirt in.
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Originally Posted by let-r-eat
I'm an old fashioned tech neck when it comes to filters. Someone a bunch smarter than I said once while talking about air filters why this such and such filter was so clean after a race on such a dusty track? Smart wise man said, "Filter not filtering." When I look at a filter this always sticks in my mind. What does a filter do with what it filters?The best filter will not be good for HP nor will the worst filter be good for durability. Compromise.Nothing against the R2c or K^N or other filters but I'm old fashioned a go with the old tried and true. Paper. HP is likely not the biggest factor in winning the race anyway.
We used a paper 14 x 4 on the chassis dyno compared to a k&n style 14 x 4 with 2 nights of dirt. The k & n style made 7 less HP than no air cleaner. The paper one was what Allstar sells, ( not a WIX ) and I thought the motor seized up. It about died at about 6000 and the headers turned red. We killed that dyno run, and dont know about the power. We were going to 7500 with the other filters. I seriously thought we seized the engine up. We checked it out, and took the filter off, re ran it , and got the same results as before.
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Originally Posted by let-r-eat
I'm not saying that other filters don't work. What I'm saying is simple. Paper works, is working now all over the country, and will continue to work.
Not all paper is equal though, Wix is about the best, others can choke the engine and could lead to engine damage.
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Originally Posted by Egoracing
Not all paper is equal though, Wix is about the best, others can choke the engine and could lead to engine damage.
I found that out. Luckily I was on the dyno and shut it down. I know guys that use the Wix or Napa gold ( made by Wix). I have also seen catalogs that listed the CFM of the filter. Some paper filters were 500 to 650 to start before they got dirty. That dyno run, made me get a top flow and a 5" filter to make sure I had enough air when dirty.
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I have been looking at getting a R2C for my Super Street. I was curious as to whether or not it was worth spending the money and get the actual R2C filter base that fits the 4150 carb? Or will the filter function properly with the regular old Aluminum base that we have been using with the K&N style of filter. Im a lot like Jeff and dont clean my filter nearly as often as I should. We lost an engine last year because of it, so this year I am wanting to upgrade filters. Just not sure as the $100+ base is worth the extra money. I realize that $100 is cheaper than a new bottom end, but if it will work fine with the same base. I would rather spend $100+ on something else.
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I found that out. Luckily I was on the dyno and shut it down. I know guys that use the Wix or Napa gold ( made by Wix). I have also seen catalogs that listed the CFM of the filter. Some paper filters were 500 to 650 to start before they got dirty. That dyno run, made me get a top flow and a 5" filter to make sure I had enough air when dirty.
Have you had the dirt in the your carb with this setup? I had looked at them before but wasn't sure how they would work.
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Have any of you guys used the OTR racing air filters and what are your thoughts on them?
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Originally Posted by dirtrace09
I found that out. Luckily I was on the dyno and shut it down. I know guys that use the Wix or Napa gold ( made by Wix). I have also seen catalogs that listed the CFM of the filter. Some paper filters were 500 to 650 to start before they got dirty. That dyno run, made me get a top flow and a 5" filter to make sure I had enough air when dirty.
Have you had the dirt in the your carb with this setup? I had looked at them before but wasn't sure how they would work.
No, you oil the top flow just like the k&n style filter. Have not had any dirt with a R2C filter either, but have only ran it a few
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The top flow allows uncontrolled air into the engine and can effect bowl pressure. It was designed for drag cars and forced induction. I have heard of it causing problems and costing power on oval track cars. It is better to have air flow that is controlled into the carb than just to dump air into it. A quality air filter and a good top and base is more than adequate and will out perform any setup that plugs with dirt or uncontrolled air into the engine. You can test this with a high speed air blower when the engine is on the dyno. You can blow air at the air cleaner and see what the engine does with any filter/top/base combo, A good leaf blower can work.
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