crate over heating need help

[Egoracing]

Check Stewarts site, there is some great information on there in the Tech tips and frequently asked questions. We tried everything and spent alot of money to do it and then got in thouch with them and never had another issue and got rid of a bunch of the parts. Now we run a single pass radiator, Stewart pump, good hoses, 1:1 pulleys, and a shroud. The thing runs perfect. One thing that helped alot was this part; RACE applications require a maximum water pump speed of 7000 RPM. For STREET applications, the water pump speed must at least match crankshaft RPM, to a maximum recommended 25% faster than crankshaft speed.
If you are not running a "race" built pump they will cavitate and not pump water, this is where a restrictor can crutch the system into working by kee[ing pressure on the pump. It is best to use a good pump and flow as much water as you can with a racing T-stat if needed to cool the engine and not allow hot spots to build up.

[fieldfiller02]

If you are not running a "race" built pump they will cavitate and not pump water, this is where a restrictor can crutch the system into working by kee[ing pressure on the pump

This is a great explanation, but I was thinking about it and I'm not sure that it's true. Isn't the thermostat/restrictor on the inlet side of the pump? In that case, the added restriction would lower the head pressure on the pump and make cavitation MORE likely. It very well may be a pump head pressure problem, and that makes a lot of sense, but I'm not sure about cavitation. Perhaps the increased head pressure reduces the pump efficiency enough that you really notice it. Especially with a stock pump designed to operate at a lower pressure. I'm not trying to argue here, I'm just trying to increase my understanding of this. That being said, flowing more water would definitely move more heat. However, adding a restrictor shouldn't really change the flow rate all that much, unless it affects the pump efficiency, which I think may be the case. Sorry, I'm an engineer, so I tend to over-think EVERYTHING, and heat transfer is something that really interests me.

[usafracer]

This is a great explanation, but I was thinking about it and I'm not sure that it's true. Isn't the thermostat/restrictor on the inlet side of the pump? In that case, the added restriction would lower the head pressure on the pump and make cavitation MORE likely. It very well may be a pump head pressure problem, and that makes a lot of sense, but I'm not sure about cavitation. Perhaps the increased head pressure reduces the pump efficiency enough that you really notice it. Especially with a stock pump designed to operate at a lower pressure. I'm not trying to argue here, I'm just trying to increase my understanding of this. That being said, flowing more water would definitely move more heat. However, adding a restrictor shouldn't really change the flow rate all that much, unless it affects the pump efficiency, which I think may be the case. Sorry, I'm an engineer, so I tend to over-think EVERYTHING, and heat transfer is something that really interests me.

The thermostat is on the outlet side.

[bluemod]

ok so i went back and checked everything out and took restictor out. Put a new belt on tighted it up as much as possible and didnt get over 180 last night/

[fieldfiller02]

The thermostat is on the outlet side.

Thanks for the correction. I always thought that was inlet. That may make sense, then, with an impeller-type pump.