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2.3 rod and head bolts
Hello, I am new on here and race a mini truck out in northern california. I bought the truck used and was wondering how to identify if the rod bolts are stock or aftermarket for racing? (the rods are stamped with ford on them) Another thing ive heard rumors about is being able to reuse the stock 12 point head bolts. I have the 12 points and was wondering if it is really ok to reuse them. Any advise would be appreciated.
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yes you can re-use the head bolts,however you may want to purchase ARP head stud kit and be done with it,last time i checked it was about $124...and remember to always torque the head bolts/studs in 3 steps.
ARP rod bolts will have a bigger nut..the stock rod nut is 1/2"-13mm and ARP is 9/16"-14mm(i believe Pioneer rod bolts are the same as ARP sizes as well).
No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!
If you build it right...it will turn left!!!
www.raceidaho.com
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ok thanks car62. also wat jet sizes do you recommend running with 11o octane?
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The ARP #151-6002 does NOT have a bigger nut. They use a 1/2-13mm socket.
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All the ARP rod bolts I have used were stamped ARP.
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Originally Posted by CnDRacing
The ARP #151-6002 does NOT have a bigger nut. They use a 1/2-13mm socket.
you are correct,my mistake,i use the pro-wave 251-6422
No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!
If you build it right...it will turn left!!!
www.raceidaho.com
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any advice on what octane to run with 12.5:1 compression?
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No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!
If you build it right...it will turn left!!!
www.raceidaho.com
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ryan,
like car62 said you can run the stock headbolts. if you shave a lot off the head be sure to shorten the stock bolts AND head alignment sleeves. if you use studs you may have to use an extra hardened washer so that the nut doesn't bottom out on the stud. don't forget to open up the oil passage if you cut a lot off the head.
i used 110 fuel in my 12.5 22r toyota with no problems. just watch your timing, jetting, and plug heat range.
olin
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Hey Olin,are you the same guy on sprintcarfan.com who runs a mini truck in orland? If so im having Putney do all the machining for me so I would guess he knows to do everything u just listed. Hes shaving .100 off the head so how much do i need to shorten my head bolts? Also with that set up what jets do you recommend running?-Ryan Cherezian
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jet starting point depends on what intake,what carb,what cc accelerator pump,what fuel,etc...id probably start with a pair of 72's and go from there
No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!
If you build it right...it will turn left!!!
www.raceidaho.com
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thanks car62, its an efi intake with a 350 carb. not sure the cc accelerator pump but its running 110 octane
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ryan, putney does top notch work and he should be able to tell you how much to shorten your bolts but with 12.5 you would be better off with studs. run the 30cc pump with the 350 or 500. i think i have 64s in my 350 with a powervalve. my 500s used 72s-80s depending if i used a powervalve.
olin
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Thanks Olin, Putney and I are actually settling on 11:1 for now to give insurance to my stock conecting rods. Only milling the head .100 and he didnt say anything about shortening the head bolts so I guess well have to see.
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jimmy will want studs i know him very well just giving u a heads up
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Originally Posted by grydergeyer26
jimmy will want studs i know him very well just giving u a heads up
hahahaha he just ordered them up for me today. Said the stock bolts belong in the trash.
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I've never had a problem with using thick washers or cutting the bolts off. Never saw the need for studs. Just an extra expense for me.
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Originally Posted by drtlvr
I've never had a problem with using thick washers or cutting the bolts off. Never saw the need for studs. Just an extra expense for me.
so your saying i should keep the old 12 points just for good measure? http://www.4m.net/images/smilies/eek.png
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I would hang on to them. You might use them in a back up motor.
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ok everyone, i got my engine out and pulled the pan off. There is no stamping on my rod bolts or nuts. They are 6 point nuts and a 14mm socket fits them. NOT 13mm. I cant see the head of the bolt, but I felt them with my finger and they are smooth (no stamping) with a dome to them. From pictures the arp rod bolts have ARP stamped on the head, but im not sure if thats how they are in reality. Can anyone help me tell if these are stock bolts or not?
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