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  1. #1

    Default 3 link with low rear%

    any suggestions on getting a 3 link to have good forward bite with about 52% rear. Im thinking of running 200-250 lr or maybe 25 degrees in my pullbar. I also have about 4" of adjustment side to side with my pullbar.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    137

    Default

    Bar lengths, sliders or springs and where, rear track bar or j bar, and yes moving top link to left will promote more drive to lr.
    When it seems all eyes are on you when you're wearing a new pair of jeans you wonder why everyone thinks you look so darn good in them. When taking them off you notice the sticker still on the pant leg.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,014

    Default

    Question, Are you mandated by rules or just can't get nose weight lower?

  4. #4

    Default

    This is actually a street stock. Our promoter decided to drop us down to 2600lbs next year. I have a full frame metric chassis that I ran last year at 3000lbs with about 300lbs of lead on it. Im putting the car on a diet this winter and think I be able to cut 100 to 150lbs off the car. But am guessing it will put me down to about 51- 52% rear wt. My bar lengths are 17". We are not allowed sliders. Springs are mounted on top of the rear end with the LR using an offset mount. We have to have a straight bar behind the rearend.

  5. #5

    Default

    If you can, shorten your bar lenghs to either 14 1/2 or 15 1/2 center to center on the heims. i run the rr bar roughly 12 degrees up angle, sometimes all the way up to 20. left rear bar i run from 18 to 32 degrees up angle. usually around 24 though. 9 degrees pinion angle, usually lead the lr an inch forward, and ill run a really heavy lr spring on dry slick tracks. i start with a 250, but there are a lot of nights im all the way up to a 375. i always run a 175 or 200 on rr. never harder than a 200. i also run a 9/2 easy up lr shock, and a 3/8 tie down on rr. straight 6 on rf most of the time, and a 6/3 on lf. this is all on a very slick track. on the slick i run 250lbs of bite, tracks that have some grip ill drop as low as 100lbs, but never any lower than that with the lack of rear weight. this has worked extremely well for me. i hope it can work for you.
    Last edited by langdonracing48; 12-17-2013 at 03:16 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    796

    Default

    Work on taking the weight off the nose. Cutting it off the rear will just make you have to add the weight back to it. Move the engine and radiator back if possible. The battery is something that can be moved. Move the rear end forward if you can shorten the wheelbase any. An old timer who is in the DLM hall of fame told me, " If you are trying to get traction in the snow, you have to throw stuff in the bed of your truck, or you aren't gonna go anywhere." 52% might be enough some of the time, but when it black ices over it probably wont be.

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